Attaching Loose Boards

The question has sometimes come up on here, as to the best
way to re-attach loose boards on leather bound books, where
the services of a bookbinder may not be economically viable.

In the past I've use strips of paper soaked in paste to make
a false spine. But just recently I've tried using 2 inch wide
watercolorist's gummed paper tape*, with excellent results.
So far at least.

*The brown stuff available from most art suppliers.

A sole word of caution. Applying dampened gum tape to any
leather, be it panelled calf, marbled calf, or even morocco
will remove any surface patination on the leather, following
removal of the tape. So that although the process is reversible,
in that the tape can be easily removed by judicious soaking,
and the leather can subsequently be dressed or polished up,
the board will no longer have a uniform patination.

First up, even when only one board is loose, IME it's best to tape
over both boards, for the sake of achieving a uniform appearance.

Before starting get some practice at wetting the tape. Maybe by
using a sponge so as to apply sufficient water to thoroughly wet
the gum but not so much as to soak the tape and wash off the gum
altogether.

Cut about eight strips of gum tape to length, i.e. the height of
the book, leaving plenty of excess for trimming at either end.
The heavier the boards maybe the more strips are needed. More can
always be added later anyway, although there will be a ridge
(see following point)

Finishing touch before starting. If the strips are slightly
trimmed along their length - most off the first strips less off
the second etc. - subsequent strips will each overlap on the boards
making for a smoother edge.

If there are labels on the spines which can be loosened by
soaking then these can first be removed for possible re-use.
Otherwise these will have to be sacrificed.

Lay the book flat on the table with the loose board on top
and positioned correctly, and with the spine facing you. Start
taping at the bottom edge of the spine right along the bottom
hinge (you may need to lift the book slightly to align this )
tape over the spine and then up and over the loose board.
Making sure its positioned correctly. Don't pull or "stretch"
the tape over the hinge however, as this may cause the book to
lay slightly open, when finished. Gently turn the book over and
repeat the process - taping over the spine starting level with
the hinge and then over the, this time, fixed board. Keep
repeating this process around eight times. As will be noted,
the thickness of the tape on the spine, is twice as thick as on
the boards. But this isn't crucial. When the spines have dried out,
preferably overnight, the ends can be trimmed with a sharp blade.

If no labels were available to be removed and then re-attached,
then anyone with access to a waterproof printer i.e a laser
can produce appropriate period paper labels, caslon face maybe,
and maybe on tinted paper. Or if using non water-based glue to
attach the labels, an inkjet can of course, be used.

Appearance wise, the results are quite acceptable IMO. And in
keeping with the leather boards, and render books so treated,
quite serviceable. Although how much wear - in terms of opening
and closing, hinges made up of four strips of gummed paper
tape will endure I'm not sure. This technique could probably
be improved by the use of fabric reinforced tape for one
layer.

This external treatment is far preferable IMO, to interior
hinges, which while hidden, place far more strain on the
structure and stitching of the book. And so are far more likely
to lead to end signatures working loose, etc.



michael adams

michael adams wrote:
The question has sometimes come up on here, as to the best
way to re-attach loose boards on leather bound books, where
the services of a bookbinder may not be economically viable.

In the past I've use strips of paper soaked in paste to make
a false spine. But just recently I've tried using 2 inch wide
watercolorist's gummed paper tape*, with excellent results....

The best way to reattach leather boards is with Japanese paper as
explained here (and elsewhere on the web):

http://beckhambooks.blogspot.com/200...s_archive.html

I've done it many times. I mix acrylic paint to dye the paper strips
used on the outside hinges. If you get the color right, the repair is
barely detectable. A hair dryer can be used to speed the process.

Mark

"Msol" wrote in message
ups.com...

michael adams wrote:
The question has sometimes come up on here, as to the best
way to re-attach loose boards on leather bound books, where
the services of a bookbinder may not be economically viable.

In the past I've use strips of paper soaked in paste to make
a false spine. But just recently I've tried using 2 inch wide
watercolorist's gummed paper tape*, with excellent results....

The best way to reattach leather boards

....

According to you.

....

is with Japanese paper as
explained here (and elsewhere on the web):

http://beckhambooks.blogspot.com/200...s_archive.html

I've done it many times. I mix acrylic paint to dye the paper strips
used on the outside hinges. If you get the color right, the repair is
barely detectable. A hair dryer can be used to speed the process.

Mark


That method advocates using only two strips of paper. One inside and
one outside the book. And is thoroughly bad practice and is to be
condemned. No matter how many websites it's repeated on.

I quote -

" Attach the strip of paper to the text block (under the original fly
leaf if possible). The other portion of the inside hinge will be
attached to the board at a later stage."

So that half of the weight of the board is being supported by the
stitching between the last two signatures at either end. Which after
a while will lead to those signatures splitting away, as that stitching
was only intended to hold the signature together not support the
weight of a board. That is, unless the books are never taken from
the shelves of course.

As to matching the colour how is it possible to get the "colour right"
when the colour of old leather bindings very often isn't consistent,
but patchy ? In many such circumstances, an honest but obvious repair
is far preferable to one that is supposed to be invisble but patently
is not.

As to the use of a hair dryer, some people might question whether its
really worth the risk of applying heat to an old binding simply in
order to save a few hours.



michael adams

OK, your right & all the professional binders who use this technique
(and there are many) are wrong.

A couple points for others who might consider the technique: It is
appropriate for normal size volumes under normal use as Japanese paper
is very strong and the inside "shoulders" on most books provide a solid
base for holding on the boards. Larger books should first get "joint
tackets" as described he

http://www.wsulibs.wsu.edu/holland/m...ttachment.html

Mark


michael adams wrote:
"Msol" wrote in message
ups.com...

michael adams wrote:
The question has sometimes come up on here, as to the best
way to re-attach loose boards on leather bound books, where
the services of a bookbinder may not be economically viable.

In the past I've use strips of paper soaked in paste to make
a false spine. But just recently I've tried using 2 inch wide
watercolorist's gummed paper tape*, with excellent results....

The best way to reattach leather boards

...

According to you.

...

is with Japanese paper as
explained here (and elsewhere on the web):

http://beckhambooks.blogspot.com/200...s_archive.html

I've done it many times. I mix acrylic paint to dye the paper strips
used on the outside hinges. If you get the color right, the repair is
barely detectable. A hair dryer can be used to speed the process.

Mark


That method advocates using only two strips of paper. One inside and
one outside the book. And is thoroughly bad practice and is to be
condemned. No matter how many websites it's repeated on.

I quote -

" Attach the strip of paper to the text block (under the original fly
leaf if possible). The other portion of the inside hinge will be
attached to the board at a later stage."

So that half of the weight of the board is being supported by the
stitching between the last two signatures at either end. Which after
a while will lead to those signatures splitting away, as that stitching
was only intended to hold the signature together not support the
weight of a board. That is, unless the books are never taken from
the shelves of course.

As to matching the colour how is it possible to get the "colour right"
when the colour of old leather bindings very often isn't consistent,
but patchy ? In many such circumstances, an honest but obvious repair
is far preferable to one that is supposed to be invisble but patently
is not.

As to the use of a hair dryer, some people might question whether its
really worth the risk of applying heat to an old binding simply in
order to save a few hours.



michael adams

"Msol" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK, your right & all the professional binders who use this technique
(and there are many) are wrong.


My method is perfectly satisfactory. Last summer I repaired 8 odd
volumes of the Nicol 1801 edition of Swift which I purchased over
20 years ago for £1 a volume, with boards detached and never got
around to reading. As I had more modern editions in any case.
I've worked my way through all 8 in the meantime as an exercise
in random reading and they stood up perfectly satisfactorily, while
the brown paper spines look perfectly neat and functional.

One or two small details were omitted from your original link such
as the cost and availabilty of the materials

Cost
$45-$55
Time
Approximately 1 hour
Materials
Solid dyed japanese paper - Aiko's Art Materials Import, 312/404-5600
Reversible PVA - Bookbinder's Warehouse, 908/264-0306
Rice starch paste - Talas, 212/219-0770
Klucel G - Hercules Inc., available from BookMakers International,
301/459-3384
Acrylic Polymer SC6000 - Bookbinder's Warehouse, 908/264-0306
http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/byorg.../an19-305.html


That's as against one roll of gummed paper tape available from
most art suppliers.

GUMMED PAPER TAPE 2" X 75' (25 YARDS) ROLL

Jerry's Price! $1.89

http://www.jerrysartarama.com/art-supply/catalogs/0047695000000/?GCID=C12646x001&keyword=GummedPaperTape2%22x75'(2 5yards)Roll

Laeving enough money left over to buy a new hair drier !



michael adams

The proof of the pudding -

http://i14.tinypic.com/34zdsol.jpg

Although obviously with raised, rather than sunken bands
as here, things might be a bit more tricky. Oops!

michael adams

....

Thank you. This will prove useful.


Francis A. Miniter


Msol wrote:
OK, your right & all the professional binders who use this technique
(and there are many) are wrong.

A couple points for others who might consider the technique: It is
appropriate for normal size volumes under normal use as Japanese paper
is very strong and the inside "shoulders" on most books provide a solid
base for holding on the boards. Larger books should first get "joint
tackets" as described he

http://www.wsulibs.wsu.edu/holland/m...ttachment.html

Mark


michael adams wrote:

"Msol" wrote in message
roups.com...

michael adams wrote:

The question has sometimes come up on here, as to the best
way to re-attach loose boards on leather bound books, where
the services of a bookbinder may not be economically viable.

In the past I've use strips of paper soaked in paste to make
a false spine. But just recently I've tried using 2 inch wide
watercolorist's gummed paper tape*, with excellent results....

The best way to reattach leather boards

...

According to you.

...

is with Japanese paper as

explained here (and elsewhere on the web):

http://beckhambooks.blogspot.com/200...s_archive.html

I've done it many times. I mix acrylic paint to dye the paper strips
used on the outside hinges. If you get the color right, the repair is
barely detectable. A hair dryer can be used to speed the process.

Mark


That method advocates using only two strips of paper. One inside and
one outside the book. And is thoroughly bad practice and is to be
condemned. No matter how many websites it's repeated on.

I quote -

" Attach the strip of paper to the text block (under the original fly
leaf if possible). The other portion of the inside hinge will be
attached to the board at a later stage."

So that half of the weight of the board is being supported by the
stitching between the last two signatures at either end. Which after
a while will lead to those signatures splitting away, as that stitching
was only intended to hold the signature together not support the
weight of a board. That is, unless the books are never taken from
the shelves of course.

As to matching the colour how is it possible to get the "colour right"
when the colour of old leather bindings very often isn't consistent,
but patchy ? In many such circumstances, an honest but obvious repair
is far preferable to one that is supposed to be invisble but patently
is not.

As to the use of a hair dryer, some people might question whether its
really worth the risk of applying heat to an old binding simply in
order to save a few hours.



michael adams