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#51
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"john cline ii" wrote in message ... "Bluesea" wrote: | I like green also, but the sample didn't come up for me on swisherpens. I think it will now. Go to Noodler's, waterproof inks, then pick Verdun... The blue sample turns to green! VOILA. It looks to be a nice green indeed. I will post and let you know whenst it gets here! john cline ii, who hopes that helps Aha! Yes, there it is! Thanks . -- ~~Bluesea~~ Spam is great in musubi but not in email. Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply. |
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#52
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"Nancy Handy" wrote in message .. . Dave wrote: 3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore. I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color stays behind. Yes, it's on his website and if you mix the waterproof black with the Aquamarine (contract) Blue, the resulting blue-black is also waterproof. If my scorecard is correct, Nathan has made about 6 waterproof ink colors: black, Aquamarine (light blue) made exclusively for Chuck, Legal Blue (blue-black), Hellbender Red, there was a purple that Chuck had sold out of and might order more, and green is out or will be soon. A waterproof purple? Shucks, I missed that one. -- ~~Bluesea~~thinking that "Legal Blue" = Legal Lapis, a Pendemonium exclusive Spam is great in musubi but not in email. Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply. |
#53
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Nancy Handy wrote: Dave wrote: 3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore. I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color stays behind. My recollection is the same, and it was suggested you could make a tamper-evident ink that way. |
#54
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Michael Wright wrote:
Nancy Handy wrote: Dave wrote: 3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore. I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color stays behind. My recollection is the same, and it was suggested you could make a tamper-evident ink that way. You two are right - there's a demonstration posted on Chuck's website http://www.swisherpens.com showing the mixed colour being washed and leaving the waterproof colour behind on the paper. Not guaranteed to work every time, but it worked with the colours he tried it on. David |
#55
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Bluesea wrote:
A waterproof purple? Shucks, I missed that one. Yes. I thought it sold out fast, I couldn't get my hands on one, but Chuck said it was a poor seller. He did mention that you can get purple by mixing Hellbender Red and the blue to get waterproof purple. I think he meant his waterproof Aquamarine Blue, not the waterproof Legal Blue. Check with him if you buy it from him. So if you mix the waterproof colors together, then the resultant color is also waterproof. Nancy |
#56
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"Jeremy" wrote in message As black is the color of choice for all formal correspondence, I want to settle on a good black ink, too. But I must confess that I like blue better for signatures on business letters. Jeremy - Noodlers Black is the way to go. It's waterproof, deep black, smooth, and doesn't seem to have any staining problems in the pen. It's replaced Aurora black as my favorite black. I too agree that formal correspondence should be in black, although I seem to write more in blue these days. kg |
#57
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"kg" wrote in message ... "Jeremy" wrote in message As black is the color of choice for all formal correspondence, I want to settle on a good black ink, too. But I must confess that I like blue better for signatures on business letters. Jeremy - Noodlers Black is the way to go. It's waterproof, deep black, smooth, and doesn't seem to have any staining problems in the pen. It's replaced Aurora black as my favorite black. I too agree that formal correspondence should be in black, although I seem to write more in blue these days. kg How is the thickness? I still have some Scrip Jet Black ink cartridges, from when they were made in America, and I really do like the extra thickness of the ink--thicker than Scrip blue. I also saw that Pelikan offered their black ink in 1 litre size, for about $43. That sounds like a good deal--assuming that the ink is a deep black. I'm going to try some of the Noodler's ink. They don't carry it at Pearl's Art Supply in Philadelphia, so I guess I'll have to order some via the Web. I really am into saturated, deep colors. Scrip has that watered-down look in their blue ink--too bad, because the ink does not feather on my paper, and it dries quickly. Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time? I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed almost black after a couple of years. |
#58
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Jeremy wrote:
Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time? I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed almost black after a couple of years. You're really into this stuff. It sounds like you need to make a trip to http://www.inksampler.com ! David |
#59
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Jeremy wrote:
[ Noodler's black] How is the thickness? I still have some Scrip Jet Black ink cartridges, from when they were made in America, and I really do like the extra thickness of the ink--thicker than Scrip blue. In my estimation, while Noodler's is a deep black, it is not "thick" in the same sense as inks more saturated with dye such as Private Reserve, Levenger, or, to an extent, Aurora. I suspect it's because Nathan formulated Noodler's so that it is not as likely to stain pens. Staining of celluloid and certain other plastics is a problem with saturated inks. At least, one of his stated objectives was to produce an ink as harmless to pens as 1950s vintage Quink or Skrip. If you truly want a "thicker," i.e., more saturated, ink, then go with one of the others. snip I really am into saturated, deep colors. Scrip has that watered-down look in their blue ink--too bad, because the ink does not feather on my paper, and it dries quickly. It's less saturated nature is one of the reasons it dries faster and may not feather as easily (I'm not too sure about the last bit.) By using more saturated inks, you'll run the risk of smearing months later because there is dried dye sitting on the paper, rather than be absorbed, which can be reconstituted in a humid atmosphere or from the sweat on your hand. Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time? I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed almost black after a couple of years. I agree with Dave, you should get a copy of Greg Clark's Ink Sampler. He tests resistance to fading from sunlight and water, in addition to providing samples of over 300 inks. The fading of Skrip's blue-black to black is how blue-black ink traditionally works. In the 19th century, blue-black ink was an iron-gall ink with indigo added. If the iron-gall was pure enough, it would be colorless, or almost so, to start with, turning black as it oxidized. In order for it to have color at the beginning, indigo was added, giving the blue color. The subsequent ink was labeled blue-black because of the changes over time. While the Skrip's blue-black you were using was not an iron-gall ink, they managed to get a similar effect, and Quink blue-black from about five years ago was the same. However, I don't know about either Sheaffer's or Parker's most recent versions. Few inks for FPs, today have iron-gall. I think MontBlanc does, and I don't know of others. The problems with iron-gall is that it's highly corrosive. Now before somebody jumps me for the previous couple of statements, MontBlanc states their blue-black is made explicitly for FPs and is perfectly safe for them. In general, though, iron-gall inks are to be avoided for FPs. HTH, Mark Z. |
#60
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"Bluesea" wrote...
. . . When I was going through a red stage, [my mom] frowned at me on more than one occasion saying that I could write in any color but writing to someone else in red was rude and I'd best stick to black, blue, or blue-black ink. A couple of months ago, in a flush of enthusiasm over one of Nathan's new inks, I wrote a rather long letter to a European friend, five or six pages, in Ottoman Rose. At the time I thought it was way cool to use this new incarnation of a long-lost "classic" color, but now ... I think it was a mistake. Let's face it, it's attractive, it's unusual, but, at bottom, O.R. is just another shade of red. And red is not for correspondence. Mother knows best. -- Viseguy |
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