Parker 21, 51 cleaning?

I picked up a Parker 21 super cheap (which, I understand, is not uncommon
with them) and a very nice Parker "51" for my wife. Couple of questions
about these pens:

1) Do you REALLY have to use only Superchrome ink or will modern inks work?

2) How do you flush these out and clean them up for new ink?

In article ,
"Jack Harrell" wrote:

I picked up a Parker 21 super cheap (which, I understand, is not uncommon
with them) and a very nice Parker "51" for my wife. Couple of questions
about these pens:

1) Do you REALLY have to use only Superchrome ink or will modern inks work?

2) How do you flush these out and clean them up for new ink?


1. In fact, it's better that you DON'T use Superchrome ink. It was a
failure because it messed up people's pens, and that's why they don't
make it anymore. Quink is one of the best to use, and you can get it
almost everywhere. Make sure not to get India ink, "calligraphy ink", or
"drawing ink" - any of those can dry permanently inside the pen and ruin
it. Sheaffer and Cross inks are also good and easily available.

2. If the pens are basically in good shape to begin with, just dirty,
then the ideal way to clean them is to use plain water (not hot, just
tap water) to repeatedly fill and empty the pens until the water comes
out clear. (it doesn't have to be perfectly clear - you're just going to
put ink in there anyway.)

If there's ink stuck in there that won't come out by rinsing with plain
water, or if the pens need fixing first, then you have to act according
to what's wrong. Don't ever use hot water or harsh chemicals - you could
damage the pen. It may help to leave the nib of the pen in a glass with
a bit of water in it for a while, if it appears that soaking will help.


David

This is what I did to my 21. When I bought it, it was clear that it hadn't
been used for a long while. So that means some ink may have hardened inside.
I soak it in filtered water overnight. The following day I unscrew the
section off to expose the feed. I rinse and work on the sac until all traces
of ink are gone. Then leave it to dry. If there is any ink residue left in
the pen, Quink with Solve-X will clean the pen as you write

Lim

"Dave" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Jack Harrell" wrote:

I picked up a Parker 21 super cheap (which, I understand, is not uncommon
with them) and a very nice Parker "51" for my wife. Couple of questions
about these pens:

1) Do you REALLY have to use only Superchrome ink or will modern inks
work?

2) How do you flush these out and clean them up for new ink?


1. In fact, it's better that you DON'T use Superchrome ink. It was a
failure because it messed up people's pens, and that's why they don't
make it anymore. Quink is one of the best to use, and you can get it
almost everywhere. Make sure not to get India ink, "calligraphy ink", or
"drawing ink" - any of those can dry permanently inside the pen and ruin
it. Sheaffer and Cross inks are also good and easily available.

2. If the pens are basically in good shape to begin with, just dirty,
then the ideal way to clean them is to use plain water (not hot, just
tap water) to repeatedly fill and empty the pens until the water comes
out clear. (it doesn't have to be perfectly clear - you're just going to
put ink in there anyway.)

If there's ink stuck in there that won't come out by rinsing with plain
water, or if the pens need fixing first, then you have to act according
to what's wrong. Don't ever use hot water or harsh chemicals - you could
damage the pen. It may help to leave the nib of the pen in a glass with
a bit of water in it for a while, if it appears that soaking will help.


David

On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 00:28:27 -0400, "Jack Harrell"
wrote:

1) Do you REALLY have to use only Superchrome ink or will modern inks work?

No, you _can_ use Superchrome ink, which isn't happy in other pens. If
you can even find some Superchrome, there are collectors who will buy
it. Either pen works fine with other inks.

Start out with some commonplace Parker Quink. Then you can investigate
other inks and other colours. Shaeffer is another good one that's
easier to find (nicer bottles and a decent sepia brown colour). Of
the colourful boutique inks I like Diamine, and Noodlers is well
spoken of hereabouts.


2) How do you flush these out and clean them up for new ink?

They're both pretty robust pens and can be soaked overnight in water
if needed, but really just refilling and emptying them with plain
water a few times ought to be enough.

For the first fill, just half-fill it with fresh ink and have a play
with it for a few days. There's likely to still be some old ink in
there. Fresh ink isn't a bad solvent for old ink, but you might find
the colour a little different from what you'll get on the next
filling.

If they need any more servicing, ask for specific advice. If it's a
vacumatic filler (button fill) not an aeromatic (press bar) then you
may be looking at a diaphram change - cheap, but it's a send-it-away
job.

Lots more info, and repair services at http://www.richardspens.com


My everyday handwriting pen is a 51 aerometric with a 50:50 mix of
Parker's blue and blue-black ink.

--
Smert' spamionam

....before you recommend an ink based on how "safe" it is...

Ask yourself if it is better to have an ink that requires several full rinses
and flushes of a pen before one can switch to a new color....and this same ink
washes off paper in a single rinse of plain tap water as if it were a sugar
coat (try this with the two most widely distributed brands of fountain pen ink
at office supply stores)....

.....OR...an ink that rinses out of the pen with one to two full rinses and
flushes of a pen before being able to switch to a different color...and this
same ink either does not come off cellulose paper (Noodler's black, contract,
eternal) or retains color longer on cellulose paper (standard Noodler's).

Put it in a demonstrator, a piston filler with a clear chamber...or fill a
clear barrel cartridge pen after sealing the threads with wax...you'll see how
it falls off the plastic and rinses away faster from plastic than most inks.
Fill up a plastic tube with it...let it sit a few days...pour it out and wash
it with a tap water rinse. Compare to other inks... You'll see what I mean.

My $0.02 cents on ink "safety" is to see for yourself...before your own eyes...
Noodler's Ink is made by a pen collector, not a pen manufacturer. There's a
difference IMO.

That is all very well. When I walk into any stationery shop, any sundry
shop, any hypermarket or any department store where stationery is sold, I
can be sure of finding Parker Quink. Now, when is that going to happen with
Noodler?

--
Best regards,
Free Citizen
http://www.freewebs.com/fpnet/

"Scaupaug1" wrote in message
...

...before you recommend an ink based on how "safe" it is...

Ask yourself if it is better to have an ink that requires several full
rinses
and flushes of a pen before one can switch to a new color....and this same
ink
washes off paper in a single rinse of plain tap water as if it were a
sugar
coat (try this with the two most widely distributed brands of fountain pen
ink
at office supply stores)....

....OR...an ink that rinses out of the pen with one to two full rinses and
flushes of a pen before being able to switch to a different color...and
this
same ink either does not come off cellulose paper (Noodler's black,
contract,
eternal) or retains color longer on cellulose paper (standard Noodler's).

Put it in a demonstrator, a piston filler with a clear chamber...or fill a
clear barrel cartridge pen after sealing the threads with wax...you'll see
how
it falls off the plastic and rinses away faster from plastic than most
inks.
Fill up a plastic tube with it...let it sit a few days...pour it out and
wash
it with a tap water rinse. Compare to other inks... You'll see what I
mean.

My $0.02 cents on ink "safety" is to see for yourself...before your own
eyes...
Noodler's Ink is made by a pen collector, not a pen manufacturer. There's
a
difference IMO.