Rapidograph Stylograph Stylographic Inkgraph nib cleaning techniques

I have a few old stylographic pens that apparently didn't have enough
iridium in the metal tube to prevent corrosion. In one nib, the metal
feeding wire (or plunger) appears to be fused inside the tube. I'm
suspecting that there isn't much hope for that one. In another, it
looks like 1mm of section has blockage. The feeder wire is very
sturdy, so I can move it in-out (both ends) to help in clearing after
apply a cleaning technique. I'm not sure if it is corrosion or
stubbornly super-dried ink. I tried a sonic cleaner as well as
soaking for a week, and still no luck in clearing it. Otherwise the
nib is in good shape--I'd hate to toss it.

I have a nice collection of Rapidograph pens and they never have this
kind of problem--my suspicion is that the material of the metal tube
(perhaps iridium) is superior to the older nibs. But then again, I
haven't let ink sit inside them for 20+ years!

Are there any techniques out there for clearing the small metal tube
of stylographs? Should I use a special solvent? Does anyone make a
super thin wire with a "drill bit" like tip for drilling microscopic
holes that might do the trick?

The alternative of using another nib is not feasible. Apparently when
Rotring used to make their Tintenkuli pens, the nib housings varied in
thickness and thread spacing over the years--you can't easily
substitute one nib between multiple pens. So, restoring a nib is
about the only choice.

Thanks in advance for any advice...
~Gary

I don't believe that stylographic nibs had any 'iridium' bits in them.
Soaking and ultrasonic cleaning as you have tried are what I use. If
the blockage is ink it is likely india ink that has petrified in
there. Ammonia is the recommended cleaner for this. I start with
Windex which is a weak ammonia solution and then progress up to
prolonged soaking in straight household ammonia. The feeder wires can
sometimes be used as a drill. A feeder wire from a Rapidograph nib
might be used more energetically to avoid risking rarities.
Is this nib from a Tintenkuli or a non-Rotring pen? I suspect
that the copies used a less stainless steel in their nibs.
As to replacing the nib, my experience is that one soon has more
bodies than nibs anyway. But check if the threads match those of a
Rapidograph nib as many do (Most Tintenkulis but few copies).
Grinding the end of a flat drafting nib into a rounded stylographic
might give you a writer if not a collecter's piece.

And, to those who have not tried them, Tintenkulis rule!


I have a few old stylographic pens that apparently didn't have enough
iridium in the metal tube to prevent corrosion. In one nib, the metal
feeding wire (or plunger) appears to be fused inside the tube. I'm
suspecting that there isn't much hope for that one. In another, it

In article , Greeneyed
wrote:

I have a few old stylographic pens that apparently didn't have enough
iridium in the metal tube to prevent corrosion. In one nib, the metal
feeding wire (or plunger) appears to be fused inside the tube. I'm

All of my dealings have been with drafting pens, so take what I say
with a hefty dose of salt regarding stylographic pens. First off there
are three kinds of Rapidographs (and their competitors). The all have
a stainless steel tube holding the wire/plunger/ink valve. The plainest
ones have nothing else and are meant for drawing on paper and vellum
only. These will get worn down quickly if used on harder surfaces. The
next group have a Tungsten tip and are hard enough to draw on synthetic
drafting papers like Denril and Mylar. Although these are quite hard
they still eventually wear the tip down. The hardest by far are the
jewel tipped. These have synthetic Rubies or Sapphires attached to the
tip, much like a good mechanical watch has jewel bearings. I have yet
to see a jewel-tip fail except through pilot error, i.e., the nib is
bent when an architect is really angry and slams the pen into the
drawing.

suspecting that there isn't much hope for that one. In another, it
looks like 1mm of section has blockage. ...

I'm not sure if it is corrosion or
stubbornly super-dried ink. I tried a sonic cleaner as well as
soaking for a week, and still no luck in clearing it.

There is a commercial product called Rapido-eze which, besides its
silly name, does wonders with petrified ink. It is a slippery solution
meant for soaking and ultrasound use. Its surfactants are also great
for cleaning jewelry... Anyway Rapido-eze's main fault is that it works
very slowly. I have found that soaking a Rapidograph nib in a diluted
solution of Rapido-eze for several days and then spending a day running
the ultrasound five minutes on, fifteen off, repeat. That is as extreme
as I have ever had to be. When I draw with Rapidographs I have a cup of
Rapido-eze and my ultrasound on the drawing table. This has allowed me
to run polymer-based ink onto Mylar through a 6-ought (that's
000000)size jewel-tip Rapidograph and not have to run out and drop
$75.00 on a new nib (those Sapphires are expensive!)

Are there any techniques out there for clearing the small metal tube
of stylographs? Should I use a special solvent? Does anyone make a
super thin wire with a "drill bit" like tip for drilling microscopic
holes that might do the trick?

I would suggest rigging up a variable pressure tube and try running
solvent through the nib -- dilute amonia or Rapido-ese. You could
really get creative and patent it! If you have access to an airbrush
air compressor you can start with very low pressure and slowly increase
it as needed.

Hope at least some of my ramblings prove useful

--
Jon Fabian
The Spam trap is obvious