A couple Rock-Ola Questions

I ended up picking up two Rock-Ola jukeboxes at the auction I went to
on Monday. The model numbers were a 494-2 and 490. I paid $50 each and
feel I got a good deal considering they both are full of records and
are operational in most respects. I do have a couple questions though.

1. On the 494-2 the selections seem to be off by one record. If top
song on one record is selected it will always play the top song on the
next choice. What is confusing is that I opened up the Rock-ola 494-2
and the 490 and they both look like they start spinning the record reel
from the same position. It appears it starts in the right position but
always ends one record off??? I know I can just reorganize the records
and fix it that way but there is probably a logical reason why it is
doing this. Why should I have to move every record so it is off by one
but then have the selection work correctly. Any ideas?

2. Where can I purchase new tmolding for these? This isn't the cheap
plastic stuff that is on arcade games. It appears to be made out of
metal and is wider then the arcade stuff.

3. The song selection display on the 494-2 is flaky. The first digit is
missing on the song selection. If you look at the picture jb4.jpg below
you can see that someone soldered the hell out of this board. It
actually looks like they unsoldered something where the digit is
missing. Are there cheap replacements for this whole board (54857)? I
haven't seen what they desoldered off there but I bet I can just solder
another one back on there. What do I need and where can I get it?

4 I read somewhere that the manual for the 494-2 and they 490 are the
same. It that correct and where can I buy a copy of this? They machines
look almost the same on the inside besides the board used on the record
selection display. Must just be a newer or older version of the board.

Lastly, is it the case that it will be cheaper to buy another parts
machine for $25 - $50 then to try and buy the display selection board
off someone on the internet/Ebay. I'm interested in buying one at a
reasonable rate if you have one.

Thanks for any responses.

http://www.velocity.net/~dimperio/jb3.jpg
http://www.velocity.net/~dimperio/jb3.jpg

The manuals and ALL Rockola 45 rpm parts are available from Victory
Glass (www.victoryglass.com).

You have quite a list of questions! Here are a few answers:

1. We are a Rock-Ola Distributor in Texas. If you want factory t-molding, it may not be available. After-market t-molding is available in a variety of colors, finishes and widths. (i.e. Chrome or Black,etc; Smooth or Textured, etc. and 1/2", 3/4", 7/8", etc.) I can probably help you with that part. Also, I will look through our parts dept. and see if I can help you with the manual(s) and display.

2. The indexing of the basket at 1 record off may be due to the encoder. Does it do it on all 100 selections or is it more prevalent on higher numbers? It may also be caused by the "dynamic braking" system for the magazine motor not working correctly. Rock-Ola did not use a "sprag" assembly to index the magazine and came up with a circuit that would electrically brake the motor instead. This is controlled by the Mechanism Control Board. Let me take a look at our schematics and maybe I can give you a "test procedure" for determing where-in the problem lies.

3. Unfortunately, you purchased two of the jukebox series that caused Rock-Ola to almost go bankrupt and be forced to sell out.

Will post results later.

David

The indexing of the basket at 1 record off is done for all 100
selections. I have run the machine for a couple of hours to test things
out and it does it all the time. I think I'm just going to move the
lables around. I plan on changing a lot of the records anyways and I
will do that at the same time. Hopefully at some point in time it
doesn't decide it time to index it correctly again.

I spent several hours trying to find the selection/buttons pcb. The
cheapest price I was quoted was $56 for the pcb new. I had quotes
double that as well for the same thing. Even $56 is hard to swallow
considering I got two machines for $50 each. That though is common in
the pinball and arcade repairing circles as well. I bought a working
Asteroids for $100 and then spent $40 for a new CPO and another $25 on
a new card board bezel. I will probably just suck it up and just buy
it. The other option would be to wait till the next auction comes
around and buy another machine for $50 for parts and hope that this
board works in it $100.

I spent some time figuring out how to run the box in the far back of
the machine that allows you to add credits, set free play and so forth.
I haven't figured it all out but I'm sure the manual would help. I'm
going to an operators place this weekend and I bet he has the manual
for this model.

Some of those long bulbs were shot in both machines. I found it strange
that Home Depot carried every size imaginable except the one I was
looking for. It was cheaper just to wire in a 24-27 inch light fixture
that I got at Wallmart for Under $8 and it had the bulb in it. Does
anyone know of any of the big chains that carry this bulb?

I'm still interesting in new Tmolding if it can be bought reasonabley.
A couple people e-mailed me and said it is hard to find. Mine isn't all
that bad but If I want to make these machines look real nice I better
do it right. I have bought it cheaply for my Asteroids and Pac-man
machine and just expected to be able to find it easily to buy.

Thanks again for everyone's input. When your not familiar with these
sort of things these groups can save you some serious trouble shooting
time.

1- David is correct about it being a problem with the encoder. First
thing to check is for a crack in the hub of the grey disc where ir goes
on the main shaft. Any play there causes wrong selectioms. I have
replacements.Next, look at the adjustment for the disc. You will see a
screw and a bracket. The threaded part of the screw sits on a section
of the grey disc. When you turn the scrw it changes the relationship of
the disc and encoder to the basket. make sure the screw is sitting on
the step. If not, push it together with your fingers. Try turning it
one way and then the other. This is the adjustment for the position of
the basket under the gripper bow.
2-The T- molding I can't help you with, there was aguy that advertised
the stuff in Gameroom magazine. If not do a web serch.
3- I couldn't get the picture of the display board to come up. Is it
missing one of the LED displays? I have them. If segments are missing
from each number, the displays are burned out (caused by plugging the
board and computer in with the power on!!), and there may be damage to
the computer. I repair both items.. If they just cut in and out,
suspect a dirty edge connector at computer and display board. With
power off, remove ribbon cable and clean board edges with a pencil
eraser. As for a cheap replacement for the board, because of all the
displays, I need about $50 for one. There are no after market
replacements.
4- Ken has great faith in Victory Glass. Believe me they do not have
ALL rockola parts, and if you don't have the part number, you will need
to buythe book from them to find it out I have a lot of items for those
machines and repair the boards and amps. As for the manuals, sell them
through Always Jukin' magazine, I am a rep for them. Why buy from
Victory Glass, they don't support this message board. Good idea to buy
from those who will take the time to answer questions. Sad to say the
service manuals are not very good. They are more concerned with
progranmmning the pricing and reading the popularity meter than
servicing the mchine. There's about 8 pages of mechanical adjustments
and that's the only technical info..THe 490 (not the 490-1 or 490-2)
and the 494 do have some differences. THe 490 has a different power
supply, mech power board, System 2 Control Unit, and display board. The
490 used blue glass displays, the later models used Red LED displays.
The programming and operation of the machine are the same, but the
wiring diagrams are different. I can sell you copies of them if you
want.
5-If you can get a parts box for $25-$50, go for it, worth it for the
motors alone.
Contact me direct if you have more questions, or want to purchase
anything.
Charlie

You complain about replacement parts for the machine, but you only paid
$50 for it. If you got it for fre, would youn expect the parts to be
free? You bought it an an auction, buyer beware if you don't know what
you are doing.
A 490 and 494 are nice machines. I sell them out of my garage, cleaned,
shopped, with a rebuilt amp for $600, with a warrenty.. Someone with a
retail store that sells jukes and pins, would get at least $999 You did
good, so don't be afraid to spend a little money fixing it up, you will
always be ahead.
Charlie

You complain about replacement parts for the machine, but you only paid
$50 for it. If you got it for fre, would youn expect the parts to be
free? You bought it an an auction, buyer beware if you don't know what
you are doing.
A 490 and 494 are nice machines. I sell them out of my garage, cleaned,
shopped, with a rebuilt amp for $600, with a warrenty.. Someone with a
retail store that sells jukes and pins, would get at least $999 You did
good, so don't be afraid to spend a little money fixing it up, you will
always be ahead.
Charlie

Charlie answered most of your questions.Listen to him.He's the man on
Rockolas.He fixed my 490-1 computer.The 490 and 494 are indeed very
different animals,I have a 490 here I'm fixing to sell.Thankfully the
amps are the same so I can isolate ammp problems I'm having.I plan to
rebuild it with all new electrolytics in the amp except the main cans
unles needed.You will be surprised at the difference in sound after
this if you do it.The T molding is tough to find.The closest you will
find with a metal look is chrome.I got mine from a place that
specializes in it.Do a Google search.Forgot exact website.Be aware the
chrome is not as tough as the original as the plating is on the
outside.The Flourescent tubes are available locally from ACE hardware
but they're almost $18 a piece the last time I looked.I think Victory
Glass is cheaper but you have to pay shipping anyway.Some other things
to watch out for is lubrication on the gripper bow.Yours may be working
now but down the line it may start failing to pick up records or
dropping them.I clean all the old grease and use GC Phonolube.I's
synthetic grease so it won't get hard like regular grease.Charlie likes
synthetic car oil I think.And if you get a lot of rumble you need new
motor mounts on the turntable motor.The rot and get hard on all
Rockolas.The ribbon cable on those Rockolas give a lot of
trouble.Mine's been aggravating me lately on my 490-1.Gotta clean the
edge connectors.Hey Charlie.Anyway the make the pins in the connector
tighter on the edge connector?

I would avoid doing anything to the edge connector. I have seen solder
applied, but all that does is destroy the connector. When i get a board
like that in have to remove all that excess solder or it will ruin my
test set up. Keep the edge connectors clean, try putting a binder clip
over the connector, this will squezze it tighter to the board. If
needed, but it is really rare for the cale to be bad, unless it was
pinched or someone screwed with it, replace the cable. I have them.
CHarlie

Thanks for the suggestions on my edge connector and cable Charlie.I'll
go in there and clean the edge connectors on the boards and see what
happens.Been getting some buttons not responding and digits going out
on my 490-1.Wiggling the cable at the connector will get it to work
temporarily til the next time.If it continues to aggravate me I'll let
you know I need the cable.By the way do you have any bulb sockets for
the mini push in lights that blink on the 490?I'm missing 3.How about
motor mounts?Got 3 hard as a rock on this 490.And last but not least I
better replace the 21 year old battery on the 490 before I sell it.I
remember you had them.Let me know.I sent the request for parts in an
email but I didn't know if you recieved it.Hope it's not a problem
posting here.Thanks.