Ink Question

In article ,
Curtis L. Russell wrote:

Frankly, it is a dinosaur. Printers and copiers that can provide that
blue signature on a copy are cheap and pervasive.

If it was/is of any use at all, they should change to
require something like metallic gel ink which doesn't look
the same on a copy of the paper. I doubt there are any
certificated archival though.
--
Urban Fredriksson http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/
To get rid of an enemy, make him a friend.

Yes Aurora is the best black. Levengers Raven is a great black, but
seemed to clog up a bit unless you have a heavy flowing pen. I'm
sticking with Aurora black.... till I see how Nathan's Noodlers flows.


I recently obtained several of the Noodlers inks.

The blue is very similar to the Private Reserve American Blue. Perhaps a
smidge lighter in shade. Beautiful.

Noodlers Black makes Aurora Black look pale. It is a rich, dark, velvety
black that captures your eye and won't let it go.


Greg

Jolyon,

I have a bottle of Noodlers black on order & was hoping that someone on
this
thread had tried it; we must be ink pioneers!


I recently got a bottle of black. It is so black that it makes the Aurora
look pale. It flows beautifully from my Pelikan 800. Rich, velvety black. I
like different shades of black, so it joins my other favorites on the shelf.

While Aurora blue and Aurora black are my benchmarks in those colors,
Noodlers Black is awesome!


Greg

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 18:59:29 +0000 (UTC), Tony Stanford
wrote:

Another question to bear in mind about permanent ink is this:
waterfastness and lightfastness are, of course, different properties,
not necessarily related.

I keep a journal, and I am much more interested in the persistence of
ink over time than in its waterfastness. None of my journals has ever
got wet, but the ones written 40 years ago (yup, 40) are now fading,
even though they are hardly ever opened.

This got me to jump up and look at my old stuff. My oldest journal
entries are only 37+ years old but the ink is still holding up all
right. I think it was Skrip blue/black, although all these years later
I'm not 100% certain. The scribbles from a year later, which were
definitely done in Skrip jet black, are all right too.

What ink were you using back in 1964?

On Sun, 2 May 2004,10:00:06, R. Paul Martin wrote

This got me to jump up and look at my old stuff. My oldest journal
entries are only 37+ years old but the ink is still holding up all
right. I think it was Skrip blue/black, although all these years later
I'm not 100% certain. The scribbles from a year later, which were
definitely done in Skrip jet black, are all right too.

Yes, unfortunately I was a schoolboy at the time, and mummy made me use
Quink washable blue so that my shirts did not stain. Mind you, I never
got ink on them anyway, but you know mothers!

Tony
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Hmmm??

Either Quink Black or Skrip black. I changed from Quink to Skrip around that
time. Don't have anything that I wrote at that time -- still have the FP's
though!!

George
"R. Paul Martin" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 18:59:29 +0000 (UTC), Tony Stanford
wrote:

Another question to bear in mind about permanent ink is this:
waterfastness and lightfastness are, of course, different properties,
not necessarily related.

I keep a journal, and I am much more interested in the persistence of
ink over time than in its waterfastness. None of my journals has ever
got wet, but the ones written 40 years ago (yup, 40) are now fading,
even though they are hardly ever opened.

This got me to jump up and look at my old stuff. My oldest journal
entries are only 37+ years old but the ink is still holding up all
right. I think it was Skrip blue/black, although all these years later
I'm not 100% certain. The scribbles from a year later, which were
definitely done in Skrip jet black, are all right too.

What ink were you using back in 1964?

Mark Atwood writes:
I've ordered a bottle of the black, and a bottle of this new
Contract Blue. I look forward to trying them out.

And they showed up in the mail today.

Wow. That's a deep black!

Wow. That's a great blue!

--
Mark Atwood | When you do things right, people won't be sure
| you've done anything at all.
http://www.pobox.com/~mra | http://www.livejournal.com/users/fallenpegasus

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 15:49:32 GMT, "KCat" wrote:

of course "value" is subjective to some degree - if you dislike the ink and
won't use it.. than it's still wasted $.

OTOH - the nice thing about the pen community is if you buy the ink and
decide you hate it (regardless of the brand) then you could probably find
someone who will trade inks with you. Some people say they pour inks down
the drain after deciding they're worthless. It's not in my nature to do
this so I still have the darn Raven black sitting in an old skrip bottle as
if I'll ever use it.

How come it's so difficult to toss the Montblanc ink I have so I can
re-use the bottle?

Pat

On Mon, 26 Apr 2004 16:57:47 GMT, "C." wrote:

My problem is this. If it dries on a page and can't be washed off - ie
is virtually insoluble in water - then how on earth can it be washed out
of a pen if the ink is inadvertently left to dry in one?

One of HP's printer ink innovations (old square DeskJet era) was a
"rain resistant" ink that relied on the acidity in paper to develop
its insolubility. It worked pretty well on cheap envelopes and
stopped the address running in bad weather. Didn't work worth a damn
on good archival paper.

--
Smert' spamionam

Scaupaug wrote:
Noodler's Black:

It was made so that you could dry out the bottle in the dry air near a coal
stove and then reconstitute it by adding water. Put a sample in a glass or
petrii dish - let it dry...then simply stir plain old water back in to the same
level the ink was at when freshly poured - and you'll see for yourself.

The ink can rinse off glass, poly plastics, nylon, celluloid, acrylics, lucite,
hard rubber, sheet rubber, sheet stainless steel, gold, palladium, pure latex -
& if not a simple rinse then with the simple action of a light brushing with
water (example: if the pen dried out multiple fillings and was left in a hot
drawer for six months or other long period, most will still wash out - but as
with any ink, you'll need to clean such a pen - especially Parker Vacs (but not
a Sheaffer plunger of course, that filler cleans itself nicely after such a
duration with a few plunges in water ;-)...it is of course always best to rinse
out the pens BEFORE long term storage when using ANY ink)..... Now for the
interesting part. The ink will alter itself in reaction to cellulose paper
and once DRIED on cellulose paper you will not be able to hinder its permanence
on that paper with: water, UV radiation, alcohol, ammonia, bleach, acetone, and
various industrial solvents and detergents often associated with the shady
people who alter documents.

Does this mean I no longer have to worry about ink-stained fingers?
Soak my skin in water, and since it's not cellulose paper, it should
rinse right off?

--
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Correct email address like pdlamb 'round-about comcast point net.