Rowe r-86

A few days ago the #0 on my selector keypad stopped working. Using all my expertise, I fiddled with the wires and it started working. Today the entire bottom row quit (6 thru 0). Any ideas would be graciously appreciated.

Thanks

On Apr 20, 2:50*am, denny405
wrote:
A few days ago the #0 on my selector keypad stopped working. *Using all
my expertise, I fiddled with the wires and it started working. *Today
the entire bottom row quit (6 thru 0). *Any ideas would be graciously
appreciated.

Thanks

--
denny405



several things,

1 - dry joints on the headers on the button bank, CCC and the
"pricing board".
Remove boards and resolder the rear (pin) side of the connectors.

2 - new pins in the headers. Some of the pins rowe used liked to fail,
or lose their tension.

3 - dry joints on the column/row driver IC's or transistors (cant
remember actual circuit).

4 - selection buttons. They can and do die, and often just go open
circuit, but can be
\pressed if you push hard or multiple times. Next time it fails,
short the terminals on the back
\and see if this helps.

Originally Posted by kreed

On Apr 20, 2:50*am, denny405
wrote:
A few days ago the #0 on my selector keypad stopped working. *Using all
my expertise, I fiddled with the wires and it started working. *Today
the entire bottom row quit (6 thru 0). *Any ideas would be graciously
appreciated.

Thanks

--
denny405



several things,

1 - dry joints on the headers on the button bank, CCC and the
"pricing board".
Remove boards and resolder the rear (pin) side of the connectors.

2 - new pins in the headers. Some of the pins rowe used liked to fail,
or lose their tension.

3 - dry joints on the column/row driver IC's or transistors (cant
remember actual circuit).

4 - selection buttons. They can and do die, and often just go open
circuit, but can be
\pressed if you push hard or multiple times. Next time it fails,
short the terminals on the back
\and see if this helps.

Hi,

All that Kreed says is correct, but stick to soldering the dry joints (called cold joints USA) on the connection pins of the molex connectors only, do not start to drift to soldering anything else on the board because if you do send it to a specialist it takes longer for us to sort out the problem. I would also say that if you can not solder correctly it should be left alone.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Originally Posted by Alan Hood

Hi,

All that Kreed says is correct, but stick to soldering the dry joints (called cold joints USA) on the connection pins of the molex connectors only, do not start to drift to soldering anything else on the board because if you do send it to a specialist it takes longer for us to sort out the problem. I would also say that if you can not solder correctly it should be left alone.

Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Thank you both very much!!!

On 4/20/2012 4:46 AM, Alan Hood wrote:
kreed;691817 Wrote:
On Apr 20, 2:50*am, denny405
wrote:-
A few days ago the #0 on my selector keypad stopped working. *Using
all
my expertise, I fiddled with the wires and it started working. *Today
the entire bottom row quit (6 thru 0). *Any ideas would be graciously
appreciated.

Thanks

--
denny405-



several things,

1 - dry joints on the headers on the button bank, CCC and the
"pricing board".
Remove boards and resolder the rear (pin) side of the connectors.

2 - new pins in the headers. Some of the pins rowe used liked to fail,
or lose their tension.

3 - dry joints on the column/row driver IC's or transistors (cant
remember actual circuit).

4 - selection buttons. They can and do die, and often just go open
circuit, but can be
\pressed if you push hard or multiple times. Next time it fails,
short the terminals on the back
\and see if this helps.

Hi,

All that Kreed says is correct, but stick to soldering the dry joints
(called cold joints USA)

Although "cold joints" is normally the wrong term also. A cold joint
was bad to begin with, both surfaces were never wetted or the joint was
moved while the solder was freezing (yes freezing) back at the factory.
Most of the time it is actually a matter of cracked solder joints due
to heating/cooling cycles and/or mechanical stress on the joint.
Just a bit of semi useless information.