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#71
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Mark Atwood writes:
Mark Atwood writes: I've ordered a bottle of the black, and a bottle of this new Contract Blue. I look forward to trying them out. And they showed up in the mail today. Wow. That's a deep black! Wow. That's a great blue! I took a sheet of heavy writing paper, and using a q-tip, applied some strokes of Noodler Black and some strokes of Noodler Aquamarine Contract, and the waited for it to dry completely. I mixed up a batch of bleaching solution (a few capfuls of store brand clorine bleach in a half gallon of water) and poured it into a pyrex tray, and then slid the paper into the solution, covered it, and let it sit. The next day, I checked it. No apparant fading. The ink was still there, with no fade and no color change. Then I took a sheet of the same kind of paper, and again using q-tips, made an array of test patches, one for each kind of bottled ink I possess. some random brand of India Ink Noodlers Black Noodlers Aquamarine Contract Shaeffer Kings Gold Private Reserve Candy Apple Red Private Reserve Sherwood Green Private Reserve Lake Placid Blue Private Reserve Blue Suede Private Reserve Grey Flannel Again, I waited for it to dry completely, and then slipped the page into the same tray of bleaching solution. I was expecting to let it sit for a day again, but didn't bother. In TEN MINUTES, all the test patches except for the India and the Noodlers ink had faded completely away. The PR Red took less than a minute to completely disappear, I stood there and watched it fade away. And the india ink started to "lift" and smear under the water, and made a noticable "smear" when I lifted the page out of the water and let it drain off. At least w.r.t. chlorine bleach, Noodlers lives up to it's claims. -- Mark Atwood | When you do things right, people won't be sure | you've done anything at all. http://www.pobox.com/~mra | http://www.livejournal.com/users/fallenpegasus |
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#72
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"Patrick Lamb" wrote in message news Scaupaug wrote: Noodler's Black: It was made so that you could dry out the bottle in the dry air near a coal stove and then reconstitute it by adding water. Put a sample in a glass or petrii dish - let it dry...then simply stir plain old water back in to the same level the ink was at when freshly poured - and you'll see for yourself. The ink can rinse off glass, poly plastics, nylon, celluloid, acrylics, lucite, hard rubber, sheet rubber, sheet stainless steel, gold, palladium, pure latex - & if not a simple rinse then with the simple action of a light brushing with water (example: if the pen dried out multiple fillings and was left in a hot drawer for six months or other long period, most will still wash out - but as with any ink, you'll need to clean such a pen - especially Parker Vacs (but not a Sheaffer plunger of course, that filler cleans itself nicely after such a duration with a few plunges in water ;-)...it is of course always best to rinse out the pens BEFORE long term storage when using ANY ink)..... Now for the interesting part. The ink will alter itself in reaction to cellulose paper and once DRIED on cellulose paper you will not be able to hinder its permanence on that paper with: water, UV radiation, alcohol, ammonia, bleach, acetone, and various industrial solvents and detergents often associated with the shady people who alter documents. Does this mean I no longer have to worry about ink-stained fingers? Soak my skin in water, and since it's not cellulose paper, it should rinse right off? Yes, I received my Noodler's contract blue yesterday and it rinsed off of my fingers a whole lot more easily than the spot of Sheaffer blue that I had on the same hand that I had to use soap and much more rubbing to remove. I was amazed. (I like the color, too.) -- ~~Bluesea~~ Spam is great in musubi but not in email. Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply. |
#73
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Just a further thought on this subject and that concerns the long term stability of the ink as produced. I've used reactive dyes in the past for silk painting and generally made up a solution that gets used in a couple of days. Most of the manufacturers advise that these dyes have a shelf life of months, if not years, when in powder form, but this reduces to days when in solution. One or two state up to 3 months but I have been unable to find any that claim to last beyond this. I have no idea what the effects of long term storage would be but I'd be interested to be reassured that Nathan's inks will last the course. I recall Frank stating numerous times in this group that inks such as Skrip could be stored for many years with no noticeable deterioration. Reactive dyes do look like the way to go for permenance on paper and I for one am very tempted to carry out home experiments in this area, as they are easily available even in a backwater like rural Suffolk (lots of arty farty types out here who delight in dying anything that'll stand still long enough, and a few that won't). Better get the stuff shipped to the UK soon, Nathan, or we'll all be brewing our own! Gordon Gordon and others, I tried those particular dyes in experiments years ago and found them to be thin, far to thin for a good fountain pen ink (keep in mind, Frank was a textile dye expert...Fall River being near me and a large textile center as well). They also faded like ghosts in the face of concentrated UV light. A retired FBI agent gave me a list of things an ink should be able to resist - and those are the items I gradually checked off (bleach, ammonia, acetone, alcohol, certain detergents, UV light, acid rain, etc...). Those dyes not only failed too many tests - they also did indeed have too short a shelf life. There were also problems with sedimentation that were to the point of being hopeless. So - my ink is different. Heck, it went through numerous changes along the way just in the past 6 months alone. I still consider the inks all works in progress...because if an improvement is discovered - you can bet I'm going to integrate it into the inks if I can! The main enemy of shelf life remains a dirty pen with odd bacteria or killer molds not yet known - and I'll hold no punches in the fight to kill them in advance. Shah's Rose should be available within 2 weeks (fingers crossed) as it has been perfected (just need time to make it!) - it is the dead ringer for the lighter tone version of Persian Rose some people asked for a few weeks ago (the more intense, darker tone remains "Ottoman Rose"). "Nigh****chman's ink" is not quite ready - but will enable people who work at night to write reports in pitch darkness as it has an organic based phosphorescence when the bottle is stored in sunlight during the day (an ink that LOVES sunlight!). Before the year is up - true whites and pastels...etc...all water based inks for fountain pens. If I can help in the struggle to make the fountain pen's utility manifest to even the most stubborn steel ball addict - it will be worth it. With Noodler's - no steel ball has greater utility than your fountain pen! |
#74
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You say you have not yet got a UK supplier. Do you have a European supplier? Shipping costs are much cheaper from Europe. Please let me know. Tony Stanford. If a European or UK distributor wants the job...please contact me through he http://www.noodlersink.com and they'll forward me the info. I'll then be calling you to try and get the ink more readily available there (my e-mail remains far beyond my ability to sort through it as of this time). As it is, I'm still struggling to get it more available here...but in time the kinks will be worked out (or I'll never sleep again). A few stores have experimented with the ink there - but no distributor in Europe as of this time. I do wish shipping costs were not so extreme for such a product - any collector run a shipping company moving freight to the UK/Europe out there in pendom?. ;-( The ink can't be made in Europe though - it has to be shipped from the USA somehow. The scale of raw materials is so small, and was developed here...it is not a product I can just switch from one to another as sheaffer did with Slovenia/Slovakia. It's not an old/established commodity type product any multinational can just move about to any country at a whim. It's still a work in progress - alive and responding to the market's evolving desires...certainly far from being a fixed position. |
#76
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Nathan,
Sorry to bug you with some quick questions that may have been asked before. Is there a color you have created to copy NOS Skrip Burgundy? Also - on my monitor (admittedly not properly calibrated but close) "Beaver" looks close. But the name implies it's actually a brown. I know I've said it already but love that Saguaro Wine - do tell me it's not going to change. Good stuff, Nathan. |
#77
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"Bluesea" wrote in message ... "Patrick Lamb" wrote in message news Does this mean I no longer have to worry about ink-stained fingers? Soak my skin in water, and since it's not cellulose paper, it should rinse right off? Yes, I received my Noodler's contract blue yesterday and it rinsed off of my fingers a whole lot more easily than the spot of Sheaffer blue that I had on the same hand that I had to use soap and much more rubbing to remove. Slight qualification due to more experience - A heavy spot of ink on rough, callused skin required soap and moderate use of a nail brush to remove. OTOH, I can still see the remains of a spot of Pelikan blue at the base of my ring finger (how did it get there?!) on the same hand two days later . -- ~~Bluesea~~ Spam is great in musubi but not in email. Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply. |
#78
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On Thu, 22 Apr 2004 23:41:14 GMT, "JP"
wrote: After going through the rainbow experience with PR and Herbin I became totally enamored with the crispness and high contrast of black on the page. I've got Penman, Pelikan, Skrip, Quink, Montblanc, Aurora and Waterman's. I would agree that the Aurora is the blackest. After I first read about the water test a few months ago I tried it on all my inks, two to three minutes to dry and then under the kitchen sprayer. All will result in a surviving address, though the montblanc fades badly, the pelikan not quite as bad. If you use the ink on a small sample, say addressing a letter, using a binder which you can get at any art supply store will make the ink color fast. Of course that is not practical if you've handwritten a hundred pages. In a pinch hair spray will do. I was having trouble with a vintage watermans that was dripping ink through the feed if I paused too long to think. Your pen is broken. I have this problem with pens that use sac style converters ( the only exception seems to be old Parker sac-style converters which never seemed to break ). The sac would start leaking and the pen would drip. I would "fix" the pen by replacing the converter with a cartridge. It got so bad that I stop using sac style converter and just refilled cartridges with a syringe. |
#79
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"Strider" wrote in message ... I was having trouble with a vintage watermans that was dripping ink through the feed if I paused too long to think. Your pen is broken. I have this problem with pens that use sac style converters ( the only exception seems to be old Parker sac-style converters which never seemed to break ). The sac would start leaking and the pen would drip. I don't know how old the vintage Waterman's is. However, if the pen is an eye dropper filler, the dripping is often a sign that the pen simply needs to be refilled. Two facts: air in the barrel expands more than ink with warm temperature; as the ink level gets low, there is more and more air in the barrel. Thus, the warmth from your hand warms the pen as you write, causing the air in the barrel to expand, and this (in turn) causes the pen to drip or leave "blobs" when you are writing. The remedy for this phenomenon is simply to refill the pen. If the pen is not an eye dropper filler, then I agree with "Strider" that the filling system needs attention. Good Luck, Dave J |
#80
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"Dave J" wrote in message
ink.net... causing the air in the barrel to expand, and this (in turn) causes the pen to drip or leave "blobs" when you are writing. The remedy for this phenomenon is simply to refill the pen. If the pen is not an eye dropper filler, then I agree with "Strider" that the filling system needs attention. If a restorer used a sac that was too large for the pen, even if it is fully intact, warmth from your hand can also cause this problem. So can a small air leak. a significant air leak will usually result in a large splat vs. a spot. KCat - splat victim |
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