Wurlitzer 1100

I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last. Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any good books leading me through the process. Any help would be appreciated.
THANKS!

On 2006-07-24 14:38:05 -0700, doogie51
said:


I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have
restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I
think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like
a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last.
Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any
good books leading me through the process. Any help would be
appreciated.
THANKS!

Don't CHROME it!!! get it Nickle plated...looks much warmer.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

John is 100% dead-on right about that........use nickel for an 1100;
NOT chrome! I tried it once, and it did NOT look right! Since, I've
used nickel on a couple of 800s, a 600, and a 4008 speaker I restored
for someone else. Besides being "softer", it just plain looks more like
it was supposed to be than if it were plated in chrome.
John, I might ask you a question. I'm doing my first 1426 (Rockola). I
assume the same idea applies, as it is the last of the Golden Age jukes
(along with the 1428). Use nickel on this one too, right? Thanks, and
good luck with the 1100. Rob
p.s. My only other advice would be to get the mechanics and electrical
BEFORE investing in the cosmetics and chrome. I still have a couple of
boxes that I've invested 5 or 6 hundred $ in, only to have it sit there
looking pretty but not working. Some day, when my electronics knowledge
becomes a bit more developed, I'll have these two finished. But
until..............
John Robertson wrote:
On 2006-07-24 14:38:05 -0700, doogie51
said:


I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have
restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I
think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like
a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last.
Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any
good books leading me through the process. Any help would be
appreciated.
THANKS!

Don't CHROME it!!! get it Nickle plated...looks much warmer.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

On 2006-07-25 06:14:06 -0700, "
said:

John is 100% dead-on right about that........use nickel for an 1100;
NOT chrome! I tried it once, and it did NOT look right! Since, I've
used nickel on a couple of 800s, a 600, and a 4008 speaker I restored
for someone else. Besides being "softer", it just plain looks more like
it was supposed to be than if it were plated in chrome.
John, I might ask you a question. I'm doing my first 1426 (Rockola). I
assume the same idea applies, as it is the last of the Golden Age jukes
(along with the 1428). Use nickel on this one too, right? Thanks, and
good luck with the 1100. Rob
p.s. My only other advice would be to get the mechanics and electrical
BEFORE investing in the cosmetics and chrome. I still have a couple of
boxes that I've invested 5 or 6 hundred $ in, only to have it sit there
looking pretty but not working. Some day, when my electronics knowledge
becomes a bit more developed, I'll have these two finished. But
until..............
John Robertson wrote:
On 2006-07-24 14:38:05 -0700, doogie51
said:


I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have
restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I
think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like
a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last.
Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any
good books leading me through the process. Any help would be
appreciated.
THANKS!

Don't CHROME it!!! get it Nickle plated...looks much warmer.

John :-#)#
--

Chrome plating was rare after the war for a few years, too expensive,
so nickel plating (last step before chrome) was often used. I'd think a
142X series machine would look very nice in nickel plate.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

According to all that I've read about the 1100 - and also personal experience
- it was the first Wurlitzer to use chrome plating. The 1100 was
supposed to be a break from the forties appearance, and the chrome castings
and aluminum grille gave it that heavy shine. Nickle may look nicer from a
forties standpoint, but if the o.p. wants full originality then I believe
chrome is the way to go.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article 2006072509311416807-spam@flipperscom, John Robertson
wrote:
On 2006-07-25 06:14:06 -0700, "
said:

John is 100% dead-on right about that........use nickel for an 1100;
NOT chrome! I tried it once, and it did NOT look right! Since, I've
used nickel on a couple of 800s, a 600, and a 4008 speaker I restored
for someone else. Besides being "softer", it just plain looks more like
it was supposed to be than if it were plated in chrome.
John, I might ask you a question. I'm doing my first 1426 (Rockola). I
assume the same idea applies, as it is the last of the Golden Age jukes
(along with the 1428). Use nickel on this one too, right? Thanks, and
good luck with the 1100. Rob
p.s. My only other advice would be to get the mechanics and electrical
BEFORE investing in the cosmetics and chrome. I still have a couple of
boxes that I've invested 5 or 6 hundred $ in, only to have it sit there
looking pretty but not working. Some day, when my electronics knowledge
becomes a bit more developed, I'll have these two finished. But
until..............
John Robertson wrote:
On 2006-07-24 14:38:05 -0700, doogie51
said:


I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have
restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I
think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like
a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last.
Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any
good books leading me through the process. Any help would be
appreciated.
THANKS!

Don't CHROME it!!! get it Nickle plated...looks much warmer.

John :-#)#
--

Chrome plating was rare after the war for a few years, too expensive,
so nickel plating (last step before chrome) was often used. I'd think a
142X series machine would look very nice in nickel plate.

John :-#)#

Originally Posted by John Robertson

On 2006-07-25 06:14:06 -0700, "
said:

John is 100% dead-on right about that........use nickel for an 1100;
NOT chrome! I tried it once, and it did NOT look right! Since, I've
used nickel on a couple of 800s, a 600, and a 4008 speaker I restored
for someone else. Besides being "softer", it just plain looks more like
it was supposed to be than if it were plated in chrome.
John, I might ask you a question. I'm doing my first 1426 (Rockola). I
assume the same idea applies, as it is the last of the Golden Age jukes
(along with the 1428). Use nickel on this one too, right? Thanks, and
good luck with the 1100. Rob
p.s. My only other advice would be to get the mechanics and electrical
BEFORE investing in the cosmetics and chrome. I still have a couple of
boxes that I've invested 5 or 6 hundred $ in, only to have it sit there
looking pretty but not working. Some day, when my electronics knowledge
becomes a bit more developed, I'll have these two finished. But
until..............
John Robertson wrote:
On 2006-07-24 14:38:05 -0700, doogie51
said:


I have come across a wurlitzer 1100 needing a total restoration. I have
restored other things in the past (classic car, soda machine) and I
think I am going to take this on. My initail hack is to tackle it like
a vehicle...cosmetic/shell first, mechanism second, and chrome last.
Can anybody tell me if that sounds about right. Also looking for any
good books leading me through the process. Any help would be
appreciated.
THANKS!

Don't CHROME it!!! get it Nickle plated...looks much warmer.

John :-#)#
--

Chrome plating was rare after the war for a few years, too expensive,
so nickel plating (last step before chrome) was often used. I'd think a
142X series machine would look very nice in nickel plate.

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they


just flip out."

Thanks much boys...that is the kind of info/help I am looking for...please keep it coming. Thanks again.

I have restored about 9 or 10 jukeboxes . In each case i got the machine
at least working before i took it totaly apart . After that i take one
unit out at a time such as the amp or keyboard and clean & restore them
one at a time making sure it works when done .
I do the mech last all its cleaning and restoring then after all that is
done i test it again .
Then i empty the cabinet and restore that then put it all back and fine
tune everything .

One thing i do also is get a couple pieces of thick clean cardboard and
make some 12 x 12 inch pieces and use them to punch or screw all the
screws into and write next to them where they go . This makes assembly
go flawless and eliminates plastic bags and confusion when the project
gets interrupted for days .

Originally Posted by Ken G.

I have restored about 9 or 10 jukeboxes . In each case i got the machine
at least working before i took it totaly apart . After that i take one
unit out at a time such as the amp or keyboard and clean & restore them
one at a time making sure it works when done .
I do the mech last all its cleaning and restoring then after all that is
done i test it again .
Then i empty the cabinet and restore that then put it all back and fine
tune everything .

One thing i do also is get a couple pieces of thick clean cardboard and
make some 12 x 12 inch pieces and use them to punch or screw all the
screws into and write next to them where they go . This makes assembly
go flawless and eliminates plastic bags and confusion when the project
gets interrupted for days .

That is some good insight...can you suggest any good books/manuals that would help in the mech restoration?

On 2006-07-26 07:10:13 -0700, doogie51
said:


Ken G. Wrote:
I have restored about 9 or 10 jukeboxes . In each case i got the
machine
at least working before i took it totaly apart . After that i take one
unit out at a time such as the amp or keyboard and clean & restore
them
one at a time making sure it works when done .
I do the mech last all its cleaning and restoring then after all that
is
done i test it again .
Then i empty the cabinet and restore that then put it all back and
fine
tune everything .

One thing i do also is get a couple pieces of thick clean cardboard
and
make some 12 x 12 inch pieces and use them to punch or screw all the
screws into and write next to them where they go . This makes assembly
go flawless and eliminates plastic bags and confusion when the project
gets interrupted for days .


That is some good insight...can you suggest any good books/manuals that
would help in the mech restoration?

Not sure if anyone made a restoration manual for these old timers.
Check with Always Jukin' for that. If not I would take LOTS of pictures
so you can return it to its original assembly.

A basket of parts and you scratching your head is not where you want
to be at the end of disassembly!

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

Originally Posted by John Robertson

On 2006-07-26 07:10:13 -0700, doogie51
said:


Ken G. Wrote:
I have restored about 9 or 10 jukeboxes . In each case i got the
machine
at least working before i took it totaly apart . After that i take one
unit out at a time such as the amp or keyboard and clean & restore
them
one at a time making sure it works when done .
I do the mech last all its cleaning and restoring then after all that
is
done i test it again .
Then i empty the cabinet and restore that then put it all back and
fine
tune everything .

One thing i do also is get a couple pieces of thick clean cardboard
and
make some 12 x 12 inch pieces and use them to punch or screw all the
screws into and write next to them where they go . This makes assembly
go flawless and eliminates plastic bags and confusion when the project
gets interrupted for days .


That is some good insight...can you suggest any good books/manuals that
would help in the mech restoration?

Not sure if anyone made a restoration manual for these old timers.
Check with Always Jukin' for that. If not I would take LOTS of pictures
so you can return it to its original assembly.

A basket of parts and you scratching your head is not where you want
to be at the end of disassembly!

John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup) John's
Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 Call
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they
just flip out."

That is also the #1 rule when doing a car...lots of pictures can help alot...Thanks