Rowe R-92 Lamp Control Board Schematic

On Mar 28, 8:48*pm, kreed wrote:
On Mar 29, 2:14 am, elkridge pinball wrote:





On Mar 28, 2:31 am, kreed wrote:

On Mar 28, 10:33 am, elkridge pinball wrote:

Success, kind of!!!!!

Resoldered bad connections, and replace 2 diodes that were shorted,
plugged everything in and lights came on (at least the ones that are
there !!!!!

The lights do the flash to the music however, the are at half
brightness and go full when I move the selector switch, but never
flash.

Where does the brown/black wires go? *I see the shielded pair goes to
the amp, but not sure on the other two???

Thanks kreed for the helpful inf!!!

I haven't seen one of these boards for some years, but based on the
typical setup rowe used for disco light control units in other models,
there is an orange/black that is for mute (tells the lamp control that
there is/isnt music playing and to go into the "attract mode" flash
mode) . its earth return would appear to be via the mains ground
(green/yel) or by the amp ground (via audio cable shield)

The brown-black is typically used by Rowe in their other models as the
+8vdc bus - direct from the power supply (before it gets to the on/off/
service switch assembly where it becomes a brown colour after the
switch).

if you mean a separate brown and black wire, the brown would likely be
the switched +8vdc and the black would be a ground (negative) wire.
This would simply provide power to the unit ?

There should also be a pot to adjust the flash sensitivity. *With a
record playing, adjust this pot until the lights begin to flash to the
beat of the music. *If someone in the past has fiddled round with the
unit, this pot has probably been altered too, stopping the lights from
flashing to the beat properly

Forgot to mention, all connections should be re soldered with a lead
based solder (Don't use the politically correct lead free rubbish).
Dry joints (particularly on backs of connectors) are a problem with
all rowe solid state PCBs that I have ever seen.

please double check all this info where possible before modifying
anything or assuming anything is safe. If you want more exact answers,
good resolution photos of the pcb (both sides) and outside of the unit
showing the plug and wire colours will help enormously. These can be
posted on a website and linked to here, or emailed direct to my email
as attatchments.

if you can post some detailed scans/pics of both sides of the board,
and of the plugs, I can assist further

Is the flash cicuit affected by the load on the circuit, many of the
lamps are missing? *I have ordered the proper colors but will not get
them until Monday? *I picked up some white 11 watt lamps just to test
the circuits over the weekend.

Thanks for all the great information.

the load shouldnt matter.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I didn't think so...

The lights dont flash even when he switch is in the constant flash
position, I have to assume there is another circuit board problem.

I only swapped the 2 diodes, maybe need to do the scr's also?

On Mar 28, 10:05*pm, elkridge pinball wrote:
On Mar 28, 8:48*pm, kreed wrote:





On Mar 29, 2:14 am, elkridge pinball wrote:

On Mar 28, 2:31 am, kreed wrote:

On Mar 28, 10:33 am, elkridge pinball wrote:

Success, kind of!!!!!

Resoldered bad connections, and replace 2 diodes that were shorted,
plugged everything in and lights came on (at least the ones that are
there !!!!!

The lights do the flash to the music however, the are at half
brightness and go full when I move the selector switch, but never
flash.

Where does the brown/black wires go? *I see the shielded pair goes to
the amp, but not sure on the other two???

Thanks kreed for the helpful inf!!!

I haven't seen one of these boards for some years, but based on the
typical setup rowe used for disco light control units in other models,
there is an orange/black that is for mute (tells the lamp control that
there is/isnt music playing and to go into the "attract mode" flash
mode) . its earth return would appear to be via the mains ground
(green/yel) or by the amp ground (via audio cable shield)

The brown-black is typically used by Rowe in their other models as the
+8vdc bus - direct from the power supply (before it gets to the on/off/
service switch assembly where it becomes a brown colour after the
switch).

if you mean a separate brown and black wire, the brown would likely be
the switched +8vdc and the black would be a ground (negative) wire.
This would simply provide power to the unit ?

There should also be a pot to adjust the flash sensitivity. *With a
record playing, adjust this pot until the lights begin to flash to the
beat of the music. *If someone in the past has fiddled round with the
unit, this pot has probably been altered too, stopping the lights from
flashing to the beat properly

Forgot to mention, all connections should be re soldered with a lead
based solder (Don't use the politically correct lead free rubbish).
Dry joints (particularly on backs of connectors) are a problem with
all rowe solid state PCBs that I have ever seen.

please double check all this info where possible before modifying
anything or assuming anything is safe. If you want more exact answers,
good resolution photos of the pcb (both sides) and outside of the unit
showing the plug and wire colours will help enormously. These can be
posted on a website and linked to here, or emailed direct to my email
as attatchments.

if you can post some detailed scans/pics of both sides of the board,
and of the plugs, I can assist further

Is the flash cicuit affected by the load on the circuit, many of the
lamps are missing? *I have ordered the proper colors but will not get
them until Monday? *I picked up some white 11 watt lamps just to test
the circuits over the weekend.

Thanks for all the great information.

the load shouldnt matter.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I didn't think so...

The lights dont flash even when he switch is in the constant flash
position, I have to assume there is another circuit board problem.

I only swapped the 2 diodes, maybe need to do the scr's also?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Having a hard time finding the SCR's that I pulled off the board, so
I'm thinking maybe they did not replace them with OEM.

The ones I pulled have IS28S on them, which is a sensitive gate SCR,
which seems correct. I have found replacements (cross-referenced)for
those, but want to check to see if they replaced with the correct ones
when the first repairs were made.

Thanks

The schematic I have on the _R90_ lamp control board has T2500D triacs
driving the lamps. The T2500D has an isolated tab if I remember
correctly.

On Apr 1, 12:22*am, Ken Layton wrote:
The schematic I have on the _R90_ lamp control board has T2500D triacs
driving the lamps. The T2500D has an isolated tab if I remember
correctly.

Thanks, looked up the T2500D, it is a "moderstely sensitive" gate.
Wonder if it will trigger or does it need the "sensitive" gate? Well,
for a couple of bucks and a few minutes of soldering time, it is worth
a shot.

KReed, I will get some photos to you soon.

Thanks.

On Apr 1, 8:34*am, elkridge pinball wrote:
On Apr 1, 12:22*am, Ken Layton wrote:

The schematic I have on the _R90_ lamp control board has T2500D triacs
driving the lamps. The T2500D has an isolated tab if I remember
correctly.

Thanks, looked up the T2500D, it is a "moderstely sensitive" gate.
Wonder if it will trigger or does it need the "sensitive" gate? *Well,
for a couple of bucks and a few minutes of soldering time, it is worth
a shot.

KReed, I will get some photos to you soon.

Thanks.

Bummer, replaced the 3 diodes and 3 gate sensitive SCR's and no
change. Lamps come on 1/2 brightness in Lo Lite/Flash Music, full
brightness in the other 2 positions, but no flashing. Adjusted
sensitivity min to max, no luck. Anybody have the pinout for P4,
which is the music signal input?

Well, back to the drawing board, at least I did'nt smoke the board!!!!

On Mar 26, 12:07*pm, Ken Layton wrote:
On Mar 26, 5:43*am, elkridge pinball wrote:

Looking for the schematic or component layout for an Rowe R-92 Lamp
Control Board (40821201).

You'd want the "Shop Service Manual" which comes in a brown flexible
plastic 3 ring binder. It has at least 50 double sided 11" x 17" full
size schematics, parts lists, and board layouts for every unit in the
R92. You can still buy these through a Rowe distributor. Just say you
want the "R-92 Shop Service Manual". Make sure they do not confuse it
with the usual field service manual and field parts manuals. This one
specifically says _SHOP_ manual.

I have the R90 Shop service manual, but the light controller schematic
is not the same part number that you mention.

E-mailed Rowe to get the part number for the Shop Service Manual, they
replied the only manula they show is the normal service manual.

Anyone know where I might be able to pick one up? I'm dying here
without the schematic for this lamp control board.

Like I said, I have the R90 lamp board schematic. It may or may not be
the same as what you have.

On Apr 3, 11:07*am, Ken Layton wrote:
Like I said, I have the R90 lamp board schematic. It may or may not be
the same as what you have.

Well, I finally found the manual part number:

Operations Sequence and Schematics (part # 3-65355-12)

Anyone have one they would like to sell????

On Apr 3, 12:54*pm, elkridge pinball wrote:


Well, I finally found the manual part number:

Operations Sequence and Schematics (part # 3-65355-12)

Anyone have one they would like to sell????

That's the part number of the R90 Shop Manual that I have. It has 73
11 x 17 pages that are double sided!

The lamp driver stuff is only two pages: a schematic on one page and a
parts list on the other.

On Apr 3, 6:25*pm, Ken Layton wrote:
On Apr 3, 12:54*pm, elkridge pinball wrote:



Well, I finally found the manual part number:

Operations Sequence and Schematics (part # 3-65355-12)

Anyone have one they would like to sell????

That's the part number of the R90 Shop Manual that I have. It has 73
11 x 17 pages that are double sided!

The lamp driver stuff is only two pages: a schematic on one page and a
parts list on the other.

They probably only made one shop manual for each "revision". Maybe
had updates sent out for changes in the models.