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Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1



 
 
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  #1  
Old November 13th 11, 07:17 AM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
Cliff Tucker
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1

Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.

The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt
in it.

Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?

Regards all,
Cliff


Ads
  #2  
Old November 13th 11, 07:49 AM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
kreed
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 376
Default Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1

On Nov 13, 4:17*pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:
Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.

The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt
in it.

Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?

Regards all,
Cliff


these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the
motor drive shaft. For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is
riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft
for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM.

To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand
pulling at each side


Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you
can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of
drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. Put it back in and turn it.
When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as
you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable
rim.

A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing
there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). You can remove
this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not
nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing.
These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded
in it, but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and
it should be ok for a long time yet.

If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont
be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE made bubblers and some
other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I
think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing.

Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate
of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with
no problems. Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate,
and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free


Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you
will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely
to be cheap.

Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft
to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the
order of the day here.


Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made
motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a
much slower RPM 2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in
USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed
to get the right diameter.

(Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries
that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a
different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. )

  #3  
Old November 14th 11, 11:42 AM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
Cliff Tucker
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5
Default Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1

Thanks Kreed. Right on brother.

I found the spring on the motor shaft and moved it up a little, bingo,
correct speed all fixed!
Also I went over the button controls (youve gotta luv the 70's, just about
everything is repairable on these things) and cleaned the switch innards,
resoldered and repaired.

There is only one more question, this is toughie I think but I'll give it a
go
..
How do you adjust the play armature (for want of a better name - the arm
with the needle on it) to hit the record correctly and when the song is over
to retract properly at the end?

At present I have to manually put the arm on to the record (misses the
record start by a couple of millimeters and at the end force the play arm
(needle) once a again by a couple of mill. Me thinks it has something to do
with the reed switch, am I right?

Fortunately, I have purchased a repro manual for the RI-2 so I learn a lot
more when I get it.

very kind regards

Cliff



"kreed" wrote in message
...
On Nov 13, 4:17 pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:
Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a
couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.

The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive
belt
in it.

Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?

Regards all,
Cliff


these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the
motor drive shaft. For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is
riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft
for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM.

To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand
pulling at each side


Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you
can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of
drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. Put it back in and turn it.
When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as
you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable
rim.

A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing
there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). You can remove
this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not
nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing.
These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded
in it, but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and
it should be ok for a long time yet.

If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont
be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE made bubblers and some
other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I
think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing.

Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate
of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with
no problems. Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate,
and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free


Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you
will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely
to be cheap.

Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft
to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the
order of the day here.


Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made
motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a
much slower RPM 2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in
USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed
to get the right diameter.

(Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries
that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a
different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. )


  #4  
Old November 16th 11, 08:40 AM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
kreed
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 376
Default Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1

On Nov 14, 8:42*pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:
Thanks Kreed. Right on brother.

I found the spring on the motor shaft and moved it up a little, bingo,
correct speed all fixed!
Also I went over the button controls (youve gotta luv the 70's, just about
everything is repairable on these things) and cleaned the switch innards,
resoldered and repaired.

There is only one more question, this is toughie I think but I'll give it a
go
.
How do you adjust the play armature (for want of a better name - the arm
with the needle on it) to hit the record correctly and when the song is over
to retract properly at the end?

At present I have to manually put the arm on to the record (misses the
record start by a couple of millimeters and at the end force the play arm
(needle) once a again by a couple of mill. Me thinks it has something to do
with the reed switch, am I right?

Fortunately, I have purchased a repro manual for the RI-2 so I learn a lot
more when I get it.

very kind regards

Cliff

First of all - an RI-2 manual is not a good idea as the RI-2 is a
Solid state machine, and yours is electro mechanical (both machines
look similar from the outside though). The wiring and electrical
system is TOTALLY and entirely different, and most of the mechanical
parts used in the RI-1 are no longer present in the RI-2 (have been
replaced with computer boards).


If you cannot get an RI-1 manual, you could get a manual for a similar
ELECTRO MECHANICAL model such as a TI 2, MM4-6 or similar, as this
will have all the adjustments for the search unit, stopping switch
plate assembly,

If I have read wrong and you have an RI-2, then ignore this comment.

---------------
with either model of RI, this is the tonearm setdown and end
adjustment. These are 2 separate processes and adjustments


You will see at the back, there is a plate behind and below the back
of the arm assembly with a hex head bolt visible. You loosen this
slightly and move (nudge) the arm slightly to the right, then
retighten when you are satisfied with the position.


Make a selection and as the arm is dropping to go on the record, turn
the power switch OFF as it drops and touches the record.

Adjust it at this point so it is slightly to the right (couple of MM)
of the first groove. A very long record such as "stairway to heaven"
by LED zeppelin (if available) is ideal for this due to the much
longer track length, the start point will be as close to the edge as
you are likely to find.

Otherwise, try a few different records at random, and readjust if
needed, and later if you find when playing records that the set down
point is not quite right



TO adjust the end point, take a look at the reed switch (glass tube
about 2" long) that is under the tonearm in front of the pivot point.

You will find 1 or 2 screws (cant remember) that secure the bracket
for this reed switch, loosen them and gently nudge the assembly to the
left (to cut off sooner) or right (to cut off later.) Be careful not
to handle or put pressure on the glass tube, as if it cracks, you are
stuffed.

Normal small reed switches like off alarm systems tend not to work
here, the contacts tend to stick together permanently due to the
magnet used being too strong)


Again the stairway to heaven record is good for this adjustment due to
its long playing time as you can set it to cut off right at the end of
the song, as there is little gap between the end of the song and the
final groove.








"kreed" wrote in message

...
On Nov 13, 4:17 pm, "Cliff Tucker" wrote:



Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a
couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.


The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive
belt
in it.


Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?


Regards all,
Cliff


these have an idler wheel that goes between the turntable and the
motor drive shaft. * For starters, make sure that the idler wheel is
riding on the thickest part of the 2 surfaces at the end of the shaft
for 45 rpm. The thinner section (at the tip) is for 33 1/3 RPM.

To access this, you can pull the turntable straight up, with one hand
pulling at each side

Failing that, you can check that the turntable is moving freely, you
can check the hole where the centre shaft goes in, put a couple of
drops of oil in there, and on the shaft. *Put it back in and turn it.
When putting back, push the idler wheel inwards with your finger, as
you lower the turntable so the wheel goes underneath the turntable
rim.

A last thing you can do, is underneath the turntable shaft housing
there is a metal plate with 2 screws (facing down). *You can remove
this, and there will be a white nylon spacer and nylon (possibly not
nylon , but who knows) washer. This washer is the TT thrust bearing.
These do wear over the years, and a groove appears with metal embedded
in it, *but you can turn the bearing upside down, and put it back, and
it should be ok for a long time yet.

If worn on both sides, you will need to replace it. You probably wont
be able to get one, but you never know, ROWE *made bubblers and some
other models with 45s in them for some time after cd came out (I
think) and these later models would likely have the same bearing.

Failing this I have heard of people getting offcuts of polycarbonate
of that same thickness, cutting them to size and putting them in with
no problems. *Places that make skylights usually use polycarbonate,
and have plenty of offcuts or small pieces for sale (or free

Finally, you may have worn turntable motor bearings, in which case you
will need a new motor, or get the bearings replaced. This is unlikely
to be cheap.

Other methods used involve force fitting a spring over the motor shaft
to increase the diameter and therefore speed. Trial and error is the
order of the day here.

Australian made Rowe AMI's are easier as they used a locally made
motor with a brass shaft that also was much thicker (due to it being a
much slower RPM *2 pole 50HZ motor rather than the 4 pole 60HZ used in
USA) , you can tin this brass with solder, and sand it down as needed
to get the right diameter.

(Note this also if buying replacement motors on Ebay from countries
that use 50HZ mains, (UK, Europe, Australia). the shaft is usually a
different diameter and they will run too fast on US mains. )



  #5  
Old February 11th 19, 04:53 PM posted to alt.collecting.juke-boxes
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1
Default Tech Help: AMI Rowe RI-1

On Sunday, November 13, 2011 at 1:17:17 AM UTC-5, Cliff Tucker wrote:
Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.

The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt
in it.

Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?

Regards all,
Cliff


  #6  
Old February 12th 19, 01:03 PM
Alan Hood Alan Hood is offline
Senior Member
 
First recorded activity by CollectingBanter: Dec 2009
Location: Sheffield UK
Posts: 187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff Tucker View Post
Hello all,
I am a pinball hobbiest having restored many classic machine.
Today I got a bargain on a Rowe AMI RI-1 Jukebox. It is old and has a couple
of problems (as expected) and hope you can offer some advice.

The problem is that the turntable isnt turning at the correct 45RPM speed,
is very very slow.
I thought it may have been a drive belt problem but I dont see a drive belt
in it.

Any advice on this greatly appreciated.
oh, and also, who is a good jukebox parts supplier for the AMI Rowe jukes?

Regards all,
Cliff
Hi Cliff,

The 1000, 1100 and 1200 mechanisms use an idlerwheel that is mounted on a linkage that makes the idlerwheel turn against the inside edge of the turntable. If you are in the USA then the turntable motor turns at 45 rpm at 60 hz in Europe and most other places the supply is at 50 hz this is achieved by the use of a speed spring on the turntable motor shaft.

You need to remove the turntable, the idlerwheel and linkage to wash them in soapy warm water to remove any traces of old oil. Once rinced and dryed lubricate with one drop of oil on each of the pivot points on the linkage and a smear of oil on the turntable shaft.

It is best to check the bearings on the turntable motor for wear, you should be able to full the shaft up on the motor, but there should not be any side to side or backward and forward movement on the shaft whilst holding the motor firmly.

We supply parts for your jukebox and undertake repairs but we are in the UK.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
 




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