Things to check with a new pen

I've recently bought a Waterman Carene, and quite frankly
I am not that happy with it. It doesn't write nearly as
well as my much less expensive Phileas does. I find that
it is scratchy, and the ink flow isn't great.

Before I go through the business of trying to send it away
for service (I live in a remote area), I was wondering if
there are some things I can check for, or perhaps do.

Although, to be honest, I don't like the Carene as much as I
thought I would. I am wrestling with the idea of ordering a
custom Nakaya pen, but oh man those things are dear.

Regards,
Anthony

Anthony Delorenzo wrote:

I've recently bought a Waterman Carene, and quite frankly
I am not that happy with it. It doesn't write nearly as
well as my much less expensive Phileas does. I find that
it is scratchy, and the ink flow isn't great.

Before I go through the business of trying to send it away
for service (I live in a remote area), I was wondering if
there are some things I can check for, or perhaps do.


This has been covered here many times and there are dozens of things you
should check esp tine alignment and flusing the pen with dertergent a
couple times. Beyond that (and tine alignment IS critical) all the
other things you need to check are described in Da Book. But if you are
a beginner and I assume you are even the most basics require a tad of
experience. If you don't know exactly what tine alignment is, and don't
have a 10x or so mag glass handy to look for it I'd suggest you return
the pen or read up on the basics of pens and how they work either in Da
Book or from other sources.

On the other hand with even a tad of experience both problems you
mention can be easily cured within seconds to a few minutes in 99% of
the cases by anyone willing to learn how. But the how of it all is the
subject of several short chapters of a small book rather than a simple
post. Frank

Although, to be honest, I don't like the Carene as much as I
thought I would. I am wrestling with the idea of ordering a
custom Nakaya pen, but oh man those things are dear.

They are very serious pens. I am culling out some of my "beauty
queens" and reinvesting the money in a Nakaya. Their pens aren't a
crap shoot. You pay for what you are getting and you (I) will have the
pleasure of getting what I paid for.

I want a bandless basic with a fine-medium flexible stub. I also love
Wajima-nuri-Tamenuri-RED, Special Model and may actually spring for it
first.

What I would really like, and may get, is a custom made urushi. I want
a straight barrel & section & a clip. What I really want is an M800
size pen that is the same design as the oversized urushi's that Namiki
sold up until a few years ago. No bands anywhere, a plain gold nib &
clip and a sublime nib.

Ko van den Boom wrote:

I was aware of the advice you gave some months ago on this topic. Still the
problem remained: hesitating nib when starting the writing and apparently
ink evaporating... through the hole in the cap. After my three weeks
holidays the Waterman Florida Blue seemed to be thickened to Blue Black...


But how do you know its caused by the hole in the cap? It could be from
many different causes. Air leak, hairline crack, poor feed or nib
adjustment, poor inner cap seal, poor seal from ink supply, which is all
very different from a hole in the cap. Blowing thru a cap proves
nothing. Sealing the hole may provide a seal, but its not the correct
way to fix the problem even if the problem is in the cap at all. The
inner cap itself should be corrected to seal while still allowing air to
pass through its outer vents. Obviously inner caps can be poorly
designed or not properly adjusted. So yes, the problem could be caused
by air getting thru to the nib and ink. Or it may not be caused by that
at all. At any rate the fix if it is a cap problem is not sealing the
hole which is supposed to be there.

I'm not saying such a seal wouldnt work. Its just not the correct way
to fix the problem. But hey, if it works-- it works I suppose. Frank

On 12 Jul 2003 06:07:36 GMT, ospam (Scaupaug) wrote:

Swisher is selling black platinum presidential for $90. If purple is
your vice, pencloseout.com has them for $113 (platinum
presidentially). The occasionally get put on sale for $83. I have
only owned 3 platinums, but the nibs are universally good. The Nakayas
are very closely modeled after these pens (surprise).

These facts may not restrain me from blowing the money on a Nakaya

Willie

I am wrestling with the idea of ordering a
custom Nakaya pen, but oh man those things are dear.


Be sure to shop around first - there are both vintage and modern alternatives
at a fraction of the costs of many of the highest priced Japanese production.
Note: the yen was 600 to the dollar in the vintage market not too long
ago...but it is now floating about just over 100 to the dollar. The least
costly 14K nib in 1955 Japan was $22 adjusted for inflation to today's
dollars...today that same size nib at a wholesale rate (they demand at least
100 purchased) is $148 per nib - the lowest cost quote for that size nib by any
of the big 3 manufacturers in Japan (the larger duofold jr. size nibs).

Some of the like new condition $35 vintage ebonites sell for $430 as "modern"
designs - and both are Japanese made and of similar quality. Shopping around
makes sense in such cases - especially any $900-$1,000 nibs that are only $90
to $110 in the US. Many Japanese made pens are shipped to Japan FROM America
because of the price differentials that have developed in the past decade in
the vintage area.

Precious metal Nib prices:

Lowest modern cost - the Pilot VP nib

Lowest in Europe - Pelikan 400 nibs when on sale, not customized.

However, if you ask for your own nibs/custom/according to what you want and
outside the standard selection...the lowest quote is in Japan at the lowest
quantity of 100 nibs...at $148 per nib.

In the states? A custom nib with more than double the gold content of that
platinum presidential you mention costs less than the msrp of that pen....does
that clear things up? A flex vintage of equal size and self filling is all
over the map in terms of celluloid and ebonite in the range of $35 to $45 - 1/2
to 1/3rd the cost of the modern and with selection numbering hundreds of
models.

The closest you will get to nib customization and with different
materials/structural design than the norm is Sailor pen. Yet...be prepared for
$450/$945 and even $2,100 for that kind of item. (under $135 to as little as
$45 for any single similar item in the states - and with your specs, not the
company's - and using ANY fountain pen nib you like).

Custom or specific raw materials outside of 14K/18K and 21/22K? No chance.
It is not available there. I find it odd that the only large pure palladium
and platinum nibs are being made in the states as an extreme specialty
hobby...and the huge manufacturers claim it to be too costly and not viable?
They've made platinum nibs before - so I don't see the excuse as valid.



A customized Ban-Ei ebonite pen that cost less than Nakaya, yet now resides in
Japan. These also can be fitted with the extra large integral nibs in
palladium, gold, flex gold, and rainbow gold (the alloy itself is colored, NOT
just plated)...as musics, spade tips, needle fines....you name it. All in US
dollars too. The one at the base of the page was smaller, yet vintage with
flex and cost just over $140 (original kegakis are $1,600 in poor condition
mind you...).

http://members.aol.com/scaupaug4/kegaki/index.html

I may be wrong, but I don't think you can get a made-just-for-you
Nakaya from anyone but Nakaya. I think that's what the OP was
thinking about. The alternative would be something like a Mottishawed
this or that, which probably would be cheaper.

There are hundreds of Japanese manufacturers that made such pens, and many
shops that make similar pens today...alas...if you want to buy the name instead
of the pen, be my guest. I don't care about the NAME...I just want the
pen/design and a nib I like...and at a rational cost!

I was looking at the Nakaya based on three things: 1) good reputation,
2) custom made, and 3) the design -- biggest reason, it is the best
looking pen I have laid eyes on, IMHO.

Pictu http://www.nakaya.org/writer2_1.jpg

I would be very interested in other options, particularly if they are
less expensive. All I am sure of: I don't like adorned pens and I want a pen
that writes well, or at least as well as my $50 Waterman Phileas.

Regards,
Anthony