Moleskines

* Bluesea wrote:
Finding the pen, ink, and paper combinations that work the best for you is
part of the fun.

I guess I could use some of the tear out pages to "test" on. I guess
its all a matter of opinion and trial and error anyway.

* Juan wrote:
BL wrote:
I've used Cross blue which is pelikan ink, and I've had some see
through and slight bleeding with moleskines. YMMV, I think.

I've got a cross and since I've let a few cartridges go through it
whilst not in use it may be that my cross pen is so unpleasant to write
with because it's become clogged up? I guess I should just flush it with
water?!

I've got cross blue and cross black for this pen so I could give it a
try, though I didn't realise it was Pelikan ink. I learn something new
everyday reading this group :-)

"User1014" wrote in message
...
* Bluesea wrote:
"BL" wrote in message
news:0_fgh.8513$495.5719@trnddc06...
User1014 wrote:

Will my mileage vary?
Dry times ...

...may be shortened by the use of blotting paper used by itself or with a
blotter (another acquisition that's fun to hunt for).


What is a blotter?

Blotting paper is a thick absorbent paper used to blot ink and a blotter is
a device that holds a piece of such paper. Rocker blotters are the most
prevalent - they are shaped like the rockers on a rocking chair or rocking
horse. There are also desk pad blotters - a desk pad holds a large sheet of
blotting paper so all you have to do is place your written page face down
and press to blot the ink.

http://tinyurl.com/vxu6y or
http://www.fahrneyspens.com/ItemList...-spchqs-0.html

This is an example. I've seen rocker blotters made of wood, metal, and
glass with various designs like ships or elephants where these have simple
knobs.

--
~~Bluesea~~
Spam is great in musubi but not in email.
Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply.

"User1014" wrote in message
...
* Bluesea wrote:
Finding the pen, ink, and paper combinations that work the best for you
is
part of the fun.

I guess I could use some of the tear out pages to "test" on. I guess
its all a matter of opinion and trial and error anyway.

Yes, everything is a matter of personal preference.

--
~~Bluesea~~
Spam is great in musubi but not in email.
Please take out the trash before sending a direct reply.

In article _xwgh.6743$Ft4.3873@trnddc02,
"BL" wrote:

I thought it was
important for the OP to understand that wetness/dryness is determined
by feed design, fit of the nib against the feed, and the width of the
nib slit and *not* point size because this is a common misconception.
I'd hate for him to automatically avoid broader points (including
those that may give his writing a bit more flair like italics and
obliques) thinking that broader points will always be wetter than
fines.

I have an interesting gaggle of nib sizes in current rotation, all of
which I use equally on Moleskine; Staples (TM) yellow legal paper; and
Apica Note Book paper ("Most advanced quality; Gives best writing
features") which is great if you can find it. The Moleskine and Apica
have about the same plate finish; the yellow legal pad is barely refined
pulp.

Inks, nibs, and wetness:
Parker Quink (which I consider a mighty free flowing ink):
Parker 51, Medium nib, very dry
Mont Blanc 25 button filler, Oblique Fine, dry
Mont Blanc 24, Oblique Broad, WET!
Pelikan M800, Fine, wet

Mont Blanc Black:
Mont Blanc 149, Medium, neither wet nor dry. I use this one mostly for
drawing on Fabriano rough finish artist's paper.

Pelikan 4001:
Omas Extra celluloid, custom J. Trafford flex stub, neither wet nor dry
Omas Paragon, custom Trafford-designed Mottishaw-manufactured stub, dry
Pelikan M1000, Broad, A Paintbrush!

Not in current rotation are two music nibs, Namiki and Platinum. Using
Namiki and Platinum ink in their respective pens, the Namiki is a very
balanced writer and the Platinum is more of a paintbrush than the M1000.

The only nib tweaking I have ever done was the "razor blade trick" on a
very dry Waterman Carene which now writes beautifully. Any other
adjustments I leave to the pros.

Jon

--
jon fabian
looked good on paper
f a b i a n "at" p a n i x "dot" c o m

BL wrote:
I thought it was important for the OP to
understand that wetness/dryness is determined
by feed design, fit of the nib against the feed,
and the width of the nib slit and *not* point
size ...

User1014 wrote:
I'm glad you did BL because I did instinctively
assume that a broader nib would be wetter.

Thanks (yet again) for illuminating me.

My pleasure. Bluesea was right when she said that broad-nibbed pens
use more ink than fine-nibbed pens. A properly adjusted broad-nibbed
pen will use more ink than a properly adjusted fine-nibbed pen (all
else being equal). That doesn't mean, however, that a properly
adjusted broad-nibbed pen will produce *a wetter line* than a
fine-nibbed pen. Wetness/dryness refers to the wetness/dryness of the
line the pen produces (i.e., the amount of ink the pen deposits onto
some standard unit of the paper's surface area) not the amount of ink
the pen uses. Imagine dipping a fine paintbrush into as much paint as
it will hold and then drawing a line across a piece of paper. Now
imagine dipping a really wide paintbrush into the same amount of paint
and drawing a line on that piece of paper. The line produced by the
wide brush will be much drier (less concentrated) than the line
produced by the fine paintbrush. The wider brush requires more paint
to make an equally concentrated line. If you had a dry-writing
fine-nibbed pen and you were somehow able to weld a broader tip on the
nib (without changing anything else), the pen would write even drier,
not wetter. Compared to fine nibs, broad nibs require greater ink flow
(they require it, they don't produce it). Usually this means
broadening the nib slit. Broadening the nib slit supplies the point
with more ink. Really broad nibs like music nibs may require either
modifications to their feeds (deeper, wider, or more ink channels) and
sometimes even another nib slit (thus producing a three-tined nib) in
order to supply the point with the ink it needs to produce a nice,
consistent line. Other factors including the amount of pressure
exerted on the nib while writing, flow characteristics of the ink (as
Juan mentioned), etc., can increase or decrease the wetness of the
line. But don't hesitate to try broader nibs for fear they'll be too
wet for your Moleskines. Who knows, you might discover that you really
like writing with medium or broad obliques. Here are few articles by
John Mottishaw you might enjoy. Have fun... B


http://nibs.com/newsletter/newslette...ingTheHand.htm

http://www.nibs.com/Article6SmoothingAdjusting.htm

http://www.nibs.com/article1.html

* BL wrote:
BL wrote:
I thought it was important for the OP to
understand that wetness/dryness is determined
by feed design, fit of the nib against the feed,
and the width of the nib slit and *not* point
size ...

User1014 wrote:
I'm glad you did BL because I did instinctively
assume that a broader nib would be wetter.

Thanks (yet again) for illuminating me.

My pleasure. Bluesea was right when she said that broad-nibbed pens
use more ink than fine-nibbed pens.

Well that does make sense instinctively but I wrongly jumped to the
conclusion that more ink is synonymous with "wetter". I do prefer
writing with a broader stroke however in a Moleskine writing real-estate
is limited so I may not have that luxury.

Anyway I guess I can use a larger nib in my Music Notebook Moleskine :-)

In article , "Bluesea" wrote:

Dry times ...

....may be shortened by the use of blotting paper used by itself or with a
blotter (another acquisition that's fun to hunt for).

Lady Ink gave me a business card; its back doubles as a blotter, pretty neat.
too bad she's no longer in the business. :-(

bye now,

Gee

I hated the sunsets of whatever colour, I hated its beauty and its
magic and the secret I would never know. I hated its indifference and
the cruelty which was part of its loveliness.

--- Jean Rhys, Wide Sargossa Sea