Looking For an Ink Recommendation

"john cline ii" wrote in message
...

"Bluesea" wrote:

| I like green also, but the sample didn't come up for me on
swisherpens.

I think it will now. Go to Noodler's, waterproof inks, then pick
Verdun... The blue sample turns to green! VOILA.

It looks to be a nice green indeed.

I will post and let you know whenst it gets here!

john cline ii, who hopes that helps

Aha! Yes, there it is!

Thanks .


--
~~Bluesea~~
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"Nancy Handy" wrote in message
.. .
Dave wrote:
3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical
balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore.

I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof
colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color
stays behind.

Yes, it's on his website and if you mix the waterproof black with the
Aquamarine (contract) Blue, the resulting blue-black is also waterproof.


If my scorecard is correct, Nathan has made about 6 waterproof ink
colors: black, Aquamarine (light blue) made exclusively for Chuck,
Legal Blue (blue-black), Hellbender Red, there was a purple that Chuck
had sold out of and might order more, and green is out or will be soon.

A waterproof purple? Shucks, I missed that one.


--
~~Bluesea~~thinking that "Legal Blue" = Legal Lapis, a Pendemonium exclusive
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Nancy Handy wrote:
Dave wrote:

3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical
balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore.


I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof
colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color
stays behind.

My recollection is the same, and it was suggested you could make
a tamper-evident ink that way.

Michael Wright wrote:

Nancy Handy wrote:
Dave wrote:

3. If you mix the fraud-proof ink with anything else, the chemical
balance will be thrown off and it won't be fraud-proof anymore.


I think Chuck said that if you add a color to one of his waterproof
colors, the added color can be washed away but the waterproof color
stays behind.

My recollection is the same, and it was suggested you could make
a tamper-evident ink that way.

You two are right - there's a demonstration posted on Chuck's website
http://www.swisherpens.com
showing the mixed colour being washed and leaving the waterproof colour
behind on the paper. Not guaranteed to work every time, but it worked
with the colours he tried it on.

David

Bluesea wrote:

A waterproof purple? Shucks, I missed that one.

Yes. I thought it sold out fast, I couldn't get my hands on one, but
Chuck said it was a poor seller.

He did mention that you can get purple by mixing Hellbender Red and the
blue to get waterproof purple. I think he meant his waterproof
Aquamarine Blue, not the waterproof Legal Blue. Check with him if you
buy it from him.

So if you mix the waterproof colors together, then the resultant color
is also waterproof.

Nancy

"Jeremy" wrote in message As black is the color
of choice for all formal correspondence, I want to
settle on a good black ink, too. But I must confess that I like blue
better
for signatures on business letters.

Jeremy - Noodlers Black is the way to go. It's waterproof, deep black,
smooth, and doesn't seem to have any staining problems in the pen. It's
replaced Aurora black as my favorite black. I too agree that formal
correspondence should be in black, although I seem to write more in blue
these days.

kg

"kg" wrote in message
...

"Jeremy" wrote in message As black is the
color
of choice for all formal correspondence, I want to
settle on a good black ink, too. But I must confess that I like blue
better
for signatures on business letters.

Jeremy - Noodlers Black is the way to go. It's waterproof, deep black,
smooth, and doesn't seem to have any staining problems in the pen. It's
replaced Aurora black as my favorite black. I too agree that formal
correspondence should be in black, although I seem to write more in blue
these days.

kg


How is the thickness?

I still have some Scrip Jet Black ink cartridges, from when they were made
in America, and I really do like the extra thickness of the ink--thicker
than Scrip blue.

I also saw that Pelikan offered their black ink in 1 litre size, for about
$43. That sounds like a good deal--assuming that the ink is a deep black.

I'm going to try some of the Noodler's ink. They don't carry it at Pearl's
Art Supply in Philadelphia, so I guess I'll have to order some via the Web.

I really am into saturated, deep colors. Scrip has that watered-down look
in their blue ink--too bad, because the ink does not feather on my paper,
and it dries quickly.

Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time?
I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago
eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed
almost black after a couple of years.

Jeremy wrote:

Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time?
I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago
eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed
almost black after a couple of years.

You're really into this stuff. It sounds like you need to make a trip to
http://www.inksampler.com

!

David

Jeremy wrote:

[ Noodler's black]

How is the thickness?

I still have some Scrip Jet Black ink cartridges, from when they were made
in America, and I really do like the extra thickness of the ink--thicker
than Scrip blue.


In my estimation, while Noodler's is a deep black, it is not
"thick" in the same sense as inks more saturated with dye such as
Private Reserve, Levenger, or, to an extent, Aurora. I suspect
it's because Nathan formulated Noodler's so that it is not as
likely to stain pens. Staining of celluloid and certain other
plastics is a problem with saturated inks. At least, one of his
stated objectives was to produce an ink as harmless to pens as
1950s vintage Quink or Skrip. If you truly want a "thicker,"
i.e., more saturated, ink, then go with one of the others.

snip


I really am into saturated, deep colors. Scrip has that watered-down look
in their blue ink--too bad, because the ink does not feather on my paper,
and it dries quickly.


It's less saturated nature is one of the reasons it dries faster
and may not feather as easily (I'm not too sure about the last
bit.) By using more saturated inks, you'll run the risk of
smearing months later because there is dried dye sitting on the
paper, rather than be absorbed, which can be reconstituted in a
humid atmosphere or from the sweat on your hand.

Are there any test results on longevity? Do inks fade noticeably over time?
I seem to remember that a blue-black ink that I used many years ago
eventually had a lot of the blue fade out, and the color on the paper seemed
almost black after a couple of years.


I agree with Dave, you should get a copy of Greg Clark's Ink
Sampler. He tests resistance to fading from sunlight and water,
in addition to providing samples of over 300 inks.

The fading of Skrip's blue-black to black is how blue-black ink
traditionally works. In the 19th century, blue-black ink was an
iron-gall ink with indigo added. If the iron-gall was pure
enough, it would be colorless, or almost so, to start with,
turning black as it oxidized. In order for it to have color at
the beginning, indigo was added, giving the blue color. The
subsequent ink was labeled blue-black because of the changes over
time. While the Skrip's blue-black you were using was not an
iron-gall ink, they managed to get a similar effect, and Quink
blue-black from about five years ago was the same. However, I
don't know about either Sheaffer's or Parker's most recent versions.

Few inks for FPs, today have iron-gall. I think MontBlanc does,
and I don't know of others. The problems with iron-gall is that
it's highly corrosive. Now before somebody jumps me for the
previous couple of statements, MontBlanc states their blue-black
is made explicitly for FPs and is perfectly safe for them. In
general, though, iron-gall inks are to be avoided for FPs.

HTH,
Mark Z.

"Bluesea" wrote...

. . . When I was going through a red
stage, [my mom] frowned at me on more than one occasion saying that I could write
in any color but writing to someone else in red was rude and I'd best stick
to black, blue, or blue-black ink.

A couple of months ago, in a flush of enthusiasm over one of Nathan's
new inks, I wrote a rather long letter to a European friend, five or
six pages, in Ottoman Rose. At the time I thought it was way cool to
use this new incarnation of a long-lost "classic" color, but now ... I
think it was a mistake. Let's face it, it's attractive, it's unusual,
but, at bottom, O.R. is just another shade of red. And red is not for
correspondence. Mother knows best.

--
Viseguy