Rockola CD 8B Key Broken in Lock - How to Prevent in Future?

Tried opening up my Rockola Bubbler juke to load in some XMas songs,
and the key snapped off in the lock. The door is very heavy, and it is
very difficult to open the door as i have to put a tremendous amount of
torque to get the key to turn in my previous openings / closings.

I already ordered a new key (ST-11296-K), but in the future, i want to
confirm the following.

1. to open the door i turn the key COUNTERclockwise, right?

2. Before turning the lock, Rockola tech support said to push on the
chrome in the front, and lift up, to alleviate the pressure on the lock
so it turns.

Is this consistant with what you folks have to do?

I just hope that I did not damage the lock in the process. If the new
key does not work, does that mean that I need to get a locksmith to
break into my juke?

Happy holidays and thanx for your feedback.

\r

I had that happen to me once when I delivered a Bubbler and had to go
up a long flight of steps. After setting it up, I could not get the
door to open. I had a hand truck with the extra wheels where I could
tilt the jukebox back. I did this and removed the ventilation screen
on the bottom of the jukebox. I was then able to reach inside and move
the lock latching bar by hand and open up the box. The screen went
back on easily. It got me in the juke without causing any damage.

"\r"

Rock-Ola gave you some sage advice. This lock merely acts as a striker against the latch bar that holds the door shut. If your new key does not work, use the cabling access hole in the rear of the cabinet and a long screwdriver, etc. to lift the latch bar up. A locksmith will cost a lot more than a new cabinet lock from Home Depot and a few minutes of your time.

mark, what a lifesaver and a GREAT tip!!!!

i don't have a hand truck, but i am thinking i can put some blankets
and a pillow or two and lay down the juke on its back, and then i can
access the latch from the bottom as you suggest.

happy holidays!!!!

\r


Mark wrote:
I had that happen to me once when I delivered a Bubbler and had to go
up a long flight of steps. After setting it up, I could not get the
door to open. I had a hand truck with the extra wheels where I could
tilt the jukebox back. I did this and removed the ventilation screen
on the bottom of the jukebox. I was then able to reach inside and move
the lock latching bar by hand and open up the box. The screen went
back on easily. It got me in the juke without causing any damage.

drebber,

more good feedback, thanx! i just ordered a spare key, and it is going
to cost me $10, so my suggestion to all is take your juke key, and make
a duplicate and put it in a safe place in case your old one snaps or is
lost.

once i get the key, i will see if the lock is broken / there is still
pieces of the broken key inside, and hopefully will not have to resort
to your plan "b".

all this just to put christmas music in the juke, oh well \-)

thanx for all the great suggestions guys.

\ron


DRebber wrote:
"\r"

Rock-Ola gave you some sage advice. This lock merely acts as a striker
against the latch bar that holds the door shut. If your new key does
not work, use the cabling access hole in the rear of the cabinet and a
long screwdriver, etc. to lift the latch bar up. A locksmith will cost
a lot more than a new cabinet lock from Home Depot and a few minutes of
your time.




--
DRebber

Golferron,

I would not suggest laying it on its back unless:

1. There are no CD's in the magazine.
2. The CD Player has the "Z" shaped retainer brackets in place.
3. The shipping bolts holding the mechanism down are in place and at least hand tight.

Using a pair of furniture dollies with a "kick-out" set of rear wheels, a man can merely lean the machine back a little, while he goes at the bottom vent screen. Laying it completely over means that every thing that is not bolted down is going to move.... somewhere.

If you still have bits of the key left in the lock, get the finest hardened jewelers screwdriver you can find to try and work the broken piece out. If you can see the remnants, try to extract them by attacking the edge of the key that has the "bits" cut into it. The other side is smooth and more likely to slide out as you go. Doing it from the other edge will only force the bits down into the locks latching mechanisms.

Good Luck!

thanx for preventing a disaster that was waiting to happen! i should
be getting my new key next week ($10) and will see if it opens the
door, otherwise i will have to try to fish out bits of key from the
lock.

happy holidays!

\r
DRebber wrote:
Golferron,

I would not suggest laying it on its back unless:

1. There are no CD's in the magazine.
2. The CD Player has the "Z" shaped retainer brackets in place.
3. The shipping bolts holding the mechanism down are in place and at
least hand tight.

Using a pair of furniture dollies with a "kick-out" set of rear wheels,
a man can merely lean the machine back a little, while he goes at the
bottom vent screen. Laying it completely over means that every thing
that is not bolted down is going to move.... somewhere.

If you still have bits of the key left in the lock, get the finest
hardened jewelers screwdriver you can find to try and work the broken
piece out. If you can see the remnants, try to extract them by
attacking the edge of the key that has the "bits" cut into it. The
other side is smooth and more likely to slide out as you go. Doing it
from the other edge will only force the bits down into the locks
latching mechanisms.

Good Luck!




--
DRebber