TECH: how to install/apply veneer to a juke cabinet

Hi,
I have a rockola 1458 that needs the cabinet sides reveneered. What
are the procedures for doing this? One side still has the original
finish, but the other has been mostly stripped down to the bare wood
with some of the old veneer still there. Thank you, Rick.

On Jan 16, 12:14*am, flashbk13 wrote:
Hi,
I have a rockola 1458 that needs the cabinet sides reveneered. What
are the procedures for doing this? One side still has the original
finish, but the other has been mostly stripped down to the bare wood
with some of the old veneer still there. *Thank you, Rick.

I tried the iron on veneer available at Lowe's on a Seeburg B. I did
not end up with what you would call a professional result. I would not
try it again and I recommend you get a pro in your area to do the job.
Steve

Originally Posted by flashbk13

Hi,
I have a rockola 1458 that needs the cabinet sides reveneered. What
are the procedures for doing this? One side still has the original
finish, but the other has been mostly stripped down to the bare wood
with some of the old veneer still there. Thank you, Rick.

Hello Flashbk13

I have done several veneer jobs in the past. What I use is the paper backed veneer that you can get at Menards or Lowes. It is not pre-glued or the type you iron on. It is just wood veneer with a paper backing on it.
What I do is strip off the old faux painting that appears to look like wood and then sand the cabinet sides smooth. Make sure to fill in any holes or gouges with wood putty or bondo. After it is all sanded down wipe off any dust with a tack cloth.
Get you veneer and lay it over the area that you want to cover. I usually clamp my veneer in place to keep it from moving on me. Once you have your veneer in place, go around the edges that hangs over the edge of the area you are covering and use a pencil to mark the underside of the veneer using the shape of your cabinet as a guide. Once you get the backside marked, unclamp the veneer and turn it over. Cut along your markings but cut it about a 1/4" farther out than what you actually have marked. This way when you go to place it back on your cabinet it will overhang a little over the edge.

Once you get the veneer cut, your ready to apply it to your cabinet. I use a laminate glue that you can purchase at any hardware store. It is for doing counter tops like formica, wood and so on. Once you get the glue you want to use a brush and evenly apply the glue to the area on you cabinet where you will be applying the veneer. After you brush the glue on let it set until it does not feel sticky to the tough. After that you will need to take two sheet of wax paper, cover one half of your cabinet area to be veneered with one sheet the cover the other half. Now, apply glue to the paper side of your veneer and let it set until it is just a little tacky to the touch. If the glue is wet it won't work very well and you may run into bubbles under your veneer.
Once the glue is almost dried or just a little tacky, lay the veneer down on your cabinet over the wax paper. Align the veneer to where you want it on the cabinet. Make sure you have a overhang of 1/8" to 1/4" around all the edges of your cabinet. Once you have it in place gently put a clamp on your veneer anywhere that won't get in your way so that the veneer won't slide around on you. Now carefully raise up one side of your veneer and pull out one of your wax paper sheet exposing the glue on the cabinet. With the wax paper out of the way slowly roll your veneer back down onto the cabinet surface with your hand smoothing out the veneer as it rolls over the glue on the cabinet. Once the glue on the cabinet touches the glue on the back of your veneer it will stick and will not let go. Take a rubber roller or veneer roller and go over the top of the veneer to make sure everything is adhered.
After you have the one half done, undo your clamp and raise up the other side of the veneer and pull out the wax paper and then do the same thing for the other side.

Once your veneer is adhered and smoothed out with a roller you will need to trim the edges. When trimming the edges, I take a sharp razor knife and go around the edges from the underneath side and score the overhang on the bottom side of the veneer but don't cut too close to the cabinet edge. Once you have all the excess overhang cut off you can either take a fine tooth file and file the veneer smooth to the edge of the cabinet or you can take a piece of sandpaper to file done the edges flush with the cabinet.

Once this is all done your ready for the stain.

Here is a link to a page of mine showing some of what I have done.
Hope this helps!

http://www.shaboomers.com/VeneerPg.htm

This is excellent advice. However, I would suggest the use of a foam foller
instead of a brush, as the roller applies a more even coat of adhesive.
Brushes tend to get clumps of adhesive built up on them as you apply the
adhesive, and this can transfer to the cabinet or veneer, potentially causing
a small bump that can be visible through the veneer.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article , Shaboomers
wrote:


Hello Flashbk13

I have done several veneer jobs in the past. What I use is the paper
backed veneer that you can get at Menards or Lowes. It is not
pre-glued or the type you iron on. It is just wood veneer with a paper
backing on it.

Originally Posted by Joseph A. 'Tony' Dziedzic

This is excellent advice. However, I would suggest the use of a foam foller
instead of a brush, as the roller applies a more even coat of adhesive.
Brushes tend to get clumps of adhesive built up on them as you apply the
adhesive, and this can transfer to the cabinet or veneer, potentially causing
a small bump that can be visible through the veneer.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article , Shaboomers
wrote:


Hello Flashbk13

I have done several veneer jobs in the past. What I use is the paper
backed veneer that you can get at Menards or Lowes. It is not
pre-glued or the type you iron on. It is just wood veneer with a paper
backing on it.

Roller brush would be good to use. I just used a regular brush and cleaned it out. With a foam brush it could become tacky and bits of the foam could come off. However, if you were going to use a fresh foam roller and plan on throwing it out after your done then it would be a good choice.

I agree on the roller . I use those tiny size rollers . Just perfect .
Dump some glue on and roll it out . It goes pretty fast .