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#21
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
"j. fabian" wrote in message ... In article , "LarryW" wrote: What exactly is it that you would have Pelikan do? Number or drops expelled while (hopefully) holding the pen vertically, tip down, over something to catch the ink, is hardly a real-world test. How about just writing with your pen? Does it write-out too fast? What nib size are you using? I own 4 Montblanc 149s. Each one expels a different number of drops after filling. Each one also has a different width nib -- from Extra Fine to Oblique Double Broad. All hold exactly the same volume of ink, however. I have about ten Pelikan 100/100N pens, vintage and reproduction. The ones with broad or oblique broad nibs produce larger drops than the extra fines. Big surprise. It's simply a matter of physics -- an Oblique Double Broad nib to fit a Montblanc 149 (their biggest nib on their biggest pen) has a huge surface area for the ink/water to stick to before gravity overcomes surface tension. Would you expect an Extra Fine to be able to hold the same size "drop"? The M1000 and M1050 were introduced ten years ago. Had there been a groundswell of dissatisfaction with their capacity it would be common knowledge by now. Until you raised the idea of counting drops I had never given any thought to any of my pens' capacities -- unless they were sorely lacking as evidenced by me having to refill too often. I only counted drops when following the instructions on filling a piston-fill pen and expelling four drops to let a little air back in to combat thermal expansion. I have been using MBs and Pelikans since the late '70s and have never even thought of complaining to either company about _anything_, including capacity. And as for your view of Chryslers, a better pen to compare would be the Waterman Edson. That huge, obese body has a tiny little Waterman standard converter rattling around inside it. It's a good thing they write like crap and easily fall apart or people might start complaining. j f There is no problem now that I realize that the reservoir size has nothing to do with the amount of ink it should hold. If they will replace my nib with one that writes to my satifaction, I can live with the ink capacity. Overall, I think Pelikan is still among the finest to be had. -LarryW |
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#22
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
"Stephen Hust" wrote in message ... "j. fabian" wrote: That being said, I have a Pelikan M1000 with an Oblique Medium nib. After filling it with _water_ (it isn't in my current rotation), it produces 15 very large drops. "Very large" is not an exact quantity. I have never thought it lacking in capacity. Does your pen fill all the way up on the first try, or do you have to repeat the filling process once or twice (keeping the nib and part of the section submerged in the ink)? -- Steve The 1000 never fills all the way, 1st, second or even 3rd try. I have even submerged the pen beyond the nib. I think that slightly less that 1/4 of the capacity is filled. I can just see the ink against a bright light slosh back and forth. --LarryW |
#23
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
"Paul G" wrote in message ... again...remember you're filling the feed as well this is normal Paul, I have both Broad and Medium Oblique nibs. Using the Oblique nib, I get between 16 and 20 large drops of h2O depending how fast I draw the fluid in. I'm guessing my pen performs within a "normal range." I think I "jumped the gun" with my concern about ink volumes. I most certainly should be concerned more about other issues such as scratchiness. Thank you all for all the help that was most appreciated. -LarryW "LarryW" wrote in message ... "Stephen Hust" wrote in message ... "j. fabian" wrote: That being said, I have a Pelikan M1000 with an Oblique Medium nib. After filling it with _water_ (it isn't in my current rotation), it produces 15 very large drops. "Very large" is not an exact quantity. I have never thought it lacking in capacity. Does your pen fill all the way up on the first try, or do you have to repeat the filling process once or twice (keeping the nib and part of the section submerged in the ink)? -- Steve The 1000 never fills all the way, 1st, second or even 3rd try. I have even submerged the pen beyond the nib. I think that slightly less that 1/4 of the capacity is filled. I can just see the ink against a bright light slosh back and forth. --LarryW |
#24
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
LarryW wrote:
The hypo-syringe is a 3 cc; cc measurement in right column, m in left. 16m=1cc.) Hi Larry, Perhaps there's a unit of measure of which I'm not aware (the "m" you refer to above), but 1 cc is equal to 1 ml. ... With a loop, I noticed that the tines are not symetrical as they should be. One tine is slighly narrower and shorter than the other. It tends to resemble an oblique slightly. If one tine is shorter than the other, that's a problem. If one tine is narrower than the other (i.e, the slit is cut a little off center), that really isn't a problem and lots of nibs exhibit this imperfection. Anyway, I'll return it. Truthfully I can't really tell how much writing I get out of a fill. I just thought that it should look filled through the window similar to the MB. The MB's chamber completely fills whereas the M1000 you can not visually see the ink. Well, you definitely should see ink when you look into the ink-view window. In fact, the entire window should appear black when the pen is filled. If you tip the pen, you may see an air bubble in there, but that's normal. When you fill the pen, make sure you submerse the entire nib.... In fact, submerse it far enough to cover about a third of the section as well. It's possible that the overall size of the M1000 does not gurantee it will hold any more in than the smaller pens. Right now, my greatest concern is to get a nice smooth glide. My letters rarely exceed 3 pages and I haven't run dry yet. I don't know how many pages you should be able to write with a fill, but a single fill of one of my 400s will last me days and I write a lot (many pages of notes per day). -- B |
#25
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
"BL" wrote in message news:Ay8Mh.15454$1a6.15138@trnddc08... Hi Larry, Perhaps there's a unit of measure of which I'm not aware (the "m" you refer to above), but 1 cc is equal to 1 ml. I don't know what the "m" unit is either.17 of them equal 1cc. ... With a loop, I noticed that the tines are not symetrical as they should be. One tine is slighly narrower and shorter than the other. It tends to resemble an oblique slightly. I went into nibs.com and followed advice and got both tines to line up together. The pen now writes as smoothy as any other. I figured if I messed it up, I could still send the mistake back and get a free replacement. I'm surprised what little effort it took on my part to get it sorted out. Tine was the same size after getting it straighened! Well, you definitely should see ink when you look into the ink-view window. In fact, the entire window should appear black when the pen is filled. If you tip the pen, you may see an air bubble in there, but that's normal. When you fill the pen, make sure you submerse the entire nib.... In fact, submerse it far enough to cover about a third of the section as well. I'm afraid I'll never see more than 1/4 of the window (if that much.) I don't know how many pages you should be able to write with a fill, but a single fill of one of my 400s will last me days and I write a lot (many pages of notes per day). -- B I haven't decided whether or not to return pen for that reason by itself. It may in fact be engineered that way. If this is the case, I wonder if it isn't a flaw. It has good flow and it glides like butter across the page. This makes me very satisfied. -LarryW |
#26
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
LarryW wrote:
I went into nibs.com and followed advice and got both tines to line up together. The pen now writes as smoothy as any other. I figured if I messed it up, I could still send the mistake back and get a free replacement. I'm surprised what little effort it took on my part to get it sorted out. Tine was the same size after getting it straighened! Yep, most of the time when a pen doesn't write smoothly, all it needs is a little tine adjustment. One should always visually inspect the tines and adjust them before considering more drastic measures like smoothing/sanding. John's instructions are the best I've seen on the web. I'm afraid I'll never see more than 1/4 of the window (if that much.) Does yours have a striped barrel or a solid barrel? When you screw down the piston knob and the piston seal inside the pen retracts or pulls up, it only retracts so far. That may be a quarter of the way up the barrel, but that's how the pen is designed. The ink chamber is the space between the bottom of the piston seal when it's in its highest position (piston knob screwed down completely) and the top of the feed. In the striped pens, the clear stripes run the entire length of the barrel. That doesn't mean you're supposed to see ink from one end of the barrel to the other. The ink chamber is, by design, only a small fraction of the entire volume of the barrel. In the solid pens, there's usally a green transparent ink window between the top of the section and the bottom part of an opaque section of the barrel. When the pen is full, ink should cover the window when the pen is held nib down. I don't know how many pages you should be I haven't decided whether or not to return pen for that reason by itself. It may in fact be engineered that way. If this is the case, I wonder if it isn't a flaw. It has good flow and it glides like butter across the page. This makes me very satisfied. -LarryW I wish I could see the pen. I'm having difficulty picturing what you think is wrong with the pen. -- B |
#27
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Pelikan maintaining vacuum (Was: Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?)
"j. fabian" wrote in message ... In article , "LarryW" wrote: The 1000 never fills all the way, 1st, second or even 3rd try. I have even submerged the pen beyond the nib. I think that slightly less that 1/4 of the capacity is filled. I can just see the ink against a bright light slosh back and forth. --LarryW If this keeps up after you get it back from Chartpak (it shouldn't) you can always try lubricating the piston to restore its vacuum seal. With all Pelikan pens you can remove the nib and feed by simply unscrewing the unit. Clear lithium grease, available many places including Pendemonium.com and fph.com (Fountain Pen Hospital here in Manhattan), and a wood toothpick. With a dry pen, remove the nib/feed. Advance the piston about halfway toward the section. Take your toothpick and a small amount of Lithium grease and *gently* spread a thin coat of grease all the way around the circumference of the piston where it contacts the barrel. Gently work the piston back and forth a few times to smear the grease evenly on the piston edge. Advance it all the way to the section and retract it all the way to remove stray deposits on the barrel. This should restore full vacuum seal to the filler. Replace the nib/feed and you are good to go. One of the benefits of Pelikan's long history of fine tolerances in engineering (the 100s and 100Ns from the 1930s had interchangeable nibs and a piston/vacuum fill system) is that they are easy work on. For example, OMAS nibs/sections are sealed in the barrel with an amalgam resembling jeweler's pitch. Modern Montblancs require special tools to remove the nibs/sections. Viscontis have interchangeable nib/feed assemblies but without removing the bonded section their negative-pressure fill-on-downstroke pistons are much more difficult to get at the valve. You should enjoy years of enjoyable use from your M1000. It is a pity that the most recent pens seem to have suffered from manufacturing defects, or at least lax quality control. I have no idea whether this corresponds to the time when Pelikan's holding company was bought out by their Far East financial partner (in Malaysia? I forget...) Chartpak is a good company -- we had a bad run with US distributors a few years back. Chartpak seems to be very attentive to customer service. Thanks for the advice. I will order some lithium grease and give it a go if I decide to not return it. After getting the nib readjusted, it is writing better than all of my others. It will be hard to part with it for 2 weeks. I'm not sure what happened to the pen. It may have been dropped to cause the misalligned tine. Charpak has always been pleasant to work with. The interchagable nib is the one biggest reason I selected Pelikan. Even with no problems, I'll end up owning 4 or 5 different nibs anyway. Already besides the medium, I have a bold and an oblique medium. I'm going to order a fine nib next time and perhaps an extra fine later. I don't care much for the oblique even though I am a southpaw. Thanks again J.F! -LarryW |
#28
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units: drops? m? (was: Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?)
"BL" writes:
LarryW wrote: The hypo-syringe is a 3 cc; cc measurement in right column, m in left. 16m=1cc.) Hi Larry, Perhaps there's a unit of measure of which I'm not aware (the "m" you refer to above), but 1 cc is equal to 1 ml. Ah--"m" is for "minims"; there are 60 minims per dram, 8 drams per ounce. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apothecaries%27_system Minims are also often referred to as "drops", which would make a lot of sense out of his measuring `drops'. If he's measuring 17 minims, that would be just about 1 ml. -- Don't be afraid to ask (Lf.((Lx.xx) (Lr.f(rr)))). |
#29
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units: drops? m? (was: Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?)
"Joshua Judson Rosen" wrote in message
... "BL" writes: LarryW wrote: The hypo-syringe is a 3 cc; cc measurement in right column, m in left. 16m=1cc.) Hi Larry, Perhaps there's a unit of measure of which I'm not aware (the "m" you refer to above), but 1 cc is equal to 1 ml. Ah--"m" is for "minims"; there are 60 minims per dram, 8 drams per ounce. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apothecaries%27_system Minims are also often referred to as "drops", which would make a lot of sense out of his measuring `drops'. If he's measuring 17 minims, that would be just about 1 ml. -- Don't be afraid to ask (Lf.((Lx.xx) (Lr.f(rr)))). Hey Josh - - ! I believe you have solved the "enigmatic m" issue.... Oddly, I just ran into a recipe scrolled in a very old book using drams and drops (elixir of wormwood was one of the ingredients I immediately recall.) Well, seems we have come around full circle, starting and ending in drops! Many many thanks Josh. I'm comforted seeing how much tangible space a drop occupies! -LarryW |
#30
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Pelikan M1000 - How many drops does your barrel hold?
"BL" wrote in message news:lyPMh.15969$1a6.2953@trnddc08... Yep, most of the time when a pen doesn't write smoothly, all it needs is a little tine adjustment. One should always visually inspect the tines and adjust them before considering more drastic measures like smoothing/sanding. John's instructions are the best I've seen on the web. John's instructions are indeed expressed well. His entire site I found exceptional and without the concise clarity, I wouldn't have had the confidence to at least give it a try. I'm afraid I'll never see more than 1/4 of the window (if that much.) Does yours have a striped barrel or a solid barrel? When you screw down the piston knob and the piston seal inside the pen retracts or pulls up, it only retracts so far. That may be a quarter of the way up the barrel, but that's how the pen is designed. The ink chamber is the space between the bottom of the piston seal when it's in its highest position (piston knob screwed down completely) and the top of the feed. In the striped pens, the clear stripes run the entire length of the barrel. That doesn't mean you're supposed to see ink from one end of the barrel to the other. The ink chamber is, by design, only a small fraction of the entire volume of the barrel. I have the green striped barrel. Through the translucent window, I can see the sillouette of the internal works (piston, archimedean screw etc.) When I draw ink into the chamber, I shouldn't be able to see "empty" occupying the space below the piston. It should be visibly occupied with ink. I did believe I should only see light from the top of the piston all the way up the shaft surrounding the screw. Perhaps this is not the case. J. Fabian suggested that I might try some lithium grease to improve the vaccum seal around the piston. It's conceivable the suction might be weak. In the solid pens, there's usally a green transparent ink window between the top of the section and the bottom part of an opaque section of the barrel. When the pen is full, ink should cover the window when the pen is held nib down. I wish I could see the pen. I'm having difficulty picturing what you think is wrong with the pen. -- B Honestly, there may be nothing at all wrong with then pen. There may be a misunderstanding on my part as to it's expectations. Apparently 20 drops capacity of ink may be generous regardless of how much it is(n't) showing. This amount afterall is liberal compared to what the Phileas or other similar converters hold. -LarryW |
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