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Noodlers Ink and Parker 61 Capillary filler.



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 27th 04, 10:49 PM
Stompy
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Default Noodlers Ink and Parker 61 Capillary filler.

Just got my first couple of bottles of Noodlers ink this morning (Thanks
Sam!).

The Black Waterproof works wonderfully, ran a page under the tap and nothing
happened to the ink.

Now, I'm sat here with a Parker 61 capillary filler which I normally fill
with Quink, and a bottle of legal lapis, wondering if I dare...

I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap
water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will throw, and if it
does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water?

I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens, not
surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is flushed and
dried and stored.

So. Is it safe?

Ads
  #2  
Old September 28th 04, 07:05 AM
David
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Default

On 2004-09-27 14:49:14 -0700, Stompy said:

Just got my first couple of bottles of Noodlers ink this morning (Thanks Sam!).

The Black Waterproof works wonderfully, ran a page under the tap and
nothing happened to the ink.

Now, I'm sat here with a Parker 61 capillary filler which I normally
fill with Quink, and a bottle of legal lapis, wondering if I dare...

I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of
mostly tap water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will
throw, and if it does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water?

I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens,
not surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is
flushed and dried and stored.

So. Is it safe?


There was a report a day or two ago of someone who had let Noodler's
ink dry inside a pen on purpose to test for this sort of thing. He said
the dried ink rinsed away clean with no problems. Nathan himself says
he has tested his ink on all sorts of materials that pens might be made
of, also with no damage or problems. If you normally keep your pens
reasonably clean anyway, it sounds as though your chances are very
good. :-)

David

  #3  
Old September 28th 04, 02:13 PM
mz
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Default

Stompy wrote:

snip


I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap
water, etc, but I'm not sure how much sediment the ink will throw, and if it
does, will it rinse out of the filler with tap water?

I keep my pens reasonably clean - as Frank used to say these are pens, not
surgical instruments - and my 61 either gets used daily, or is flushed and
dried and stored.

So. Is it safe?


I'm not sure what you mean by "...how much sediment the ink
will throw." Since you're familiar with Frank, you might
also remember how many times he mentioned FP inks don't have
pigments, i.e., solids, but contain dyes. If you have an ink
with "sediment" don't use it in any FP, Parker 61 or otherwise.

Also, Nathan has stated Noodler's was formulated to emulate
Parker Quink and Sheaffer Skrip of the 1950s, a period when
these inks were especially FP-friendly. Given this is
roughly the same era as your Parker 61, there should be no
problem.

HTH,
Mark Z.
  #4  
Old September 28th 04, 11:13 PM
Stompy
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Default

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 14:13:05 +0100, mz wrote
(in article ):


I'm not sure what you mean by "...how much sediment the ink
will throw." Since you're familiar with Frank, you might
also remember how many times he mentioned FP inks don't have
pigments, i.e., solids, but contain dyes. If you have an ink
with "sediment" don't use it in any FP, Parker 61 or otherwise.


An excellent point and well made. What I meant was what sort of residue would
the ink leave behind if it evaporated a little in the pen.

Also, Nathan has stated Noodler's was formulated to emulate
Parker Quink and Sheaffer Skrip of the 1950s, a period when
these inks were especially FP-friendly. Given this is
roughly the same era as your Parker 61, there should be no
problem.

HTH,
Mark Z.


I bit the bullet and filled my Parker 61 with Legal Lapis, and after a couple
of written pages I'm glad I did. I nice turquoise shaded blue back which
flows wonderfully.

Thanks.


  #5  
Old October 2nd 04, 10:20 AM
Stompy
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Default

On Tue, 28 Sep 2004 23:13:09 +0100, Stompy wrote
(in article ):


I bit the bullet and filled my Parker 61 with Legal Lapis, and after a
couple
of written pages I'm glad I did. I nice turquoise shaded blue back which
flows wonderfully.


The Legal Lapis seems to be the first ink that lets me use a highlighter pen
over without leeching.

  #6  
Old October 5th 04, 02:38 AM
Scaupaug1
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Default


I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap
water


I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then
some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost
for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors have not
showed me their books! ;-)

For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the
stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water
through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear.
You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to
push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray
it clear out of the sink and make a mess.
  #7  
Old October 5th 04, 03:08 AM
Scaupaug1
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Posts: n/a
Default


I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap
water, etc,


I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then
some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost
for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors have not
showed me their books! ;-)

For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the
stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water
through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear.
You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to
push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray
it clear out of the sink and make a mess.
  #8  
Old October 5th 04, 04:41 AM
Scaupaug1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then
some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost
for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors of
course have not showed me their books! ;-)

For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the
stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water
through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear.
You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to
push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray
it clear out of the sink and make a mess. If you do this before long term
storage and before switching inks - the pen should be fine for a long time.

The main ink I fear concerning mixing is a Ukrainian ink that is highly acidic
and has other unsavory chemicals - it also smells slightly of rotten eggs.
Avoid that and also avoid the Chinese ink that smells like turpentine paint.
Both have salts and high acid content. I have no other way of identifying them
- as my samples arrived in medical bottles and not original labeled bottles.

Mixing - don't bother mixing the bottles... When using vintage inks with
Frank, he noted how any dust and debris that is attracted to the feed and nib
as one writes would get washed off and in a good ink, would settle to the
bottom of the bottle...leaving the top layer of ink clean (I always said "Why
not rinse before filling"...but of course most people rinse on the 3rd or 4th
filling). Notably in many vintage inks that were high dye content inks, it was
also found some concentrated dye would coat the base of a bottle's glass more
than the sides and top (enough so that when dried up you could see through the
sides of the bottle, but not see through the base). Just fill from the top -
don't mix... The very bottom of the bottle is the same as the bottom of a wine
barrel. The brim vrs. the dregs.

  #9  
Old October 5th 04, 04:50 AM
Scaupaug1
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Posts: n/a
Default

Proper citation...

I understand that the ink is supposed to be non staining, made of mostly tap
water, etc,



I wish. The water is not cheap. It's distilled..and then
some...etc...etc...it is as pure as water can be... Thus a big reason my cost
for ink is the highest, and profit most likely the lowest (competitors of
course have not showed me their books! ;-)

For rinsing out my 61's - I actually put the filler end in a surgical tube (the
stretch latex kind) and put the other end over the faucet - then run the water
through the pen at low pressure for a few minutes - until the water runs clear.
You can also do this holding the filler end with your hand sealing enough to
push the flow through - but you'll waste more water that way...and might spray
it clear out of the sink and make a mess. If you do this before long term
storage and before switching inks - the pen should be fine for a long time.

The main ink I fear concerning mixing is a Ukrainian ink that is highly acidic
and has other unsavory chemicals - it also smells slightly of rotten eggs.
Avoid that and also avoid the Chinese ink that smells like turpentine paint.
Both have salts and high acid content. I have no other way of identifying them
- as my samples arrived in medical bottles and not original labeled bottles.

Mixing - don't bother mixing the bottles... When using vintage inks with
Frank, he noted how any dust and debris that is attracted to the feed and nib
as one writes would get washed off and in a good ink, would settle to the
bottom of the bottle...leaving the top layer of ink clean (I always said "Why
not rinse before filling"...but of course most people rinse on the 3rd or 4th
filling). Notably in many vintage inks that were high dye content inks, it was
also found some concentrated dye would coat the base of a bottle's glass more
than the sides and top (enough so that when dried up you could see through the
sides of the bottle, but not see through the base). Just fill from the top -
don't mix... The bottom of the bottle is the same as the bottom of a wine
barrel. The brim vrs. the dregs.

  #10  
Old October 5th 04, 05:11 AM
Scaupaug1
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

that the ink is supposed to be non staining,

You can try this for yourself - soak plastic in the ink....for months. It
rinses off with tap water afterwards. Also...spray it on plastic
sheets...leave in the sun...let dry...leave it for months. It rinses off with
a spray of water. I've even rinsed it through polyester fibers such as those
used to clean fish tanks or fill stuffed animals. Clear plastic barreled
eyedropper pens are good for testing the ink as well...the ink will fall off
the sides clear and clean each time the pen chamber is shifted.

Paper? Cellulose like cotton? No chance in hell...it will laugh at water and
most chemicals (in fact I have not yet found a chemical that removes the ink
from cellulose paper - although industrial bleach turns the paper back into
pulp mush...your written word remains in the same form within the mush sheet!).
If this is a concern for recycling...not that a quick stir of a glass rod
mixes the mushed paper pulp into uniform gray matter very similar to that seen
at recycling plants. I see no reason for concern about that issue.
 




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