R-88 Mech control Board

Does anyone have a scan of the Mech Control Schematics for a Rowe Ami
R-88 Mech control board?

I have a parts and service manual, it's the "MECHANISM CONTROL”
4-07221-02

The board is labled 6-08708-03. The Juke is new to me, but it just
rotates the basket continuously. The trouble shooting manual took me
to the Mech control board. The board has 8 leds on it. The side that
says TT motor and all don't light up. The other side does.

I think one of these triacs is bad. But I'd like to check it
further. Anybody have any advice on this problem?

On Mar 1, 12:25*pm, wrote:
Does anyone have a scan of the Mech Control Schematics for a Rowe Ami
R-88 Mech control board?

I have a parts and service manual, *it's the "MECHANISM CONTROL”
4-07221-02

The board is labled 6-08708-03. *The Juke is new to me, but it just
rotates the basket continuously. *The trouble shooting manual took me
to the Mech control board. *The board has 8 leds on it. *The side that
says TT motor and all don't light up. *The other side does.

I think one of these triacs is bad. *But I'd like to check it
further. *Anybody have any advice on this problem?


Note - the board is basically the same from models R-84 through to R94
and ROWE 45rpm bubbler are fully interchangable, if you have another
machine handy and want to "swap" to test.


I have a feeling that it might not be this board that has the problem.

For the magazine to rotate, you also need to engage the "sprag
solenoid" to unlock the driven gear
for the magazine, and isnt easy to see. without this, the motor will
buzz but not turn if its being held on by a faulty triac or similar.
To turn both of these on really needs the CCC computer or a really
serious problem !

(Note: I haven't had problems with the TRIAC that I can recall, but I
have had the opto coupler units go leaky (they possibly can short
internally too), this can cause the motor (transfer or mag) to run
extremely slowly (about 100 th normal speed) when its supposed to not
move. (when its actually supposed to be on it will run at normal
speed). On the "transfer" motor, this will show up as the transfer arm
creeping slowly upward as the record plays (over 1-2 minutes) enough
to touch or slightly lift the tone arm and make the needle skip,
"halfway through every record"

A bog standard 4N28 optocoupler works fine as a replacement in this
case - if you cant get the original unit that I think had an SCR
rather than transistor as the output device.



If the led's "MAG MOTOR" and "DETENT" are both on, then the central
control computer (on the back wall) is causing the motor to run.

The most likely cause of this will be the optical switch assembly.
(CCC cant find home position and rotsearches endlessly trying)

To determine this, there should also be 2 LED marked "OPT index" and
"OPT Home". Index should flash 100 times per 1 full magazine rotation,
and "home" should flash once (at the 99 or 00 position - cant remember
which).

If this isn't happening, or there is erratic -not steady rhythmic-
flashing of the "index" LED then this optical switch is faulty and
needs replacing. This is a well known problem. Some of these boards
have a couple of pots to "fine adjust" the sensitivity of the "index"
and "home" sw, and someone may have fiddled with them, causing erratic
detection.

If this isn't the case you may have a faulty CCC. board. This series
is VERY reliable in my experience, and if there is a problem its most
likely to be a bad battery, or rubbish in the ram that can be caused
by a bad battery (needs RAM clearing).

If this isn't the case you may have a faulty CCC. board. *This series
is VERY reliable in my experience, and if there is a problem its most
likely to be a bad battery, or rubbish in the ram that can be caused
by a bad battery (needs RAM clearing).


How do I do the "Ram Clearing"?

The optical swtich seems to work fine. The optical swtich shows it
reading each position and it comes "home" on record 99 like it is
supposed to. I went through the manual, and I'm not getting the TT and
Detent light from the mech board on power up.

I got the schematics from a kind and generous person on the forum.

Can I power it up without the Mech board?

On Mar 7, 8:35*pm, wrote:
If this isn't the case you may have a faulty CCC. board. *This series
is VERY reliable in my experience, and if there is a problem its most
likely to be a bad battery, or rubbish in the ram that can be caused
by a bad battery (needs RAM clearing).

*How do I do the "Ram Clearing"?


Remove the battery (if its original, now is an excellent time to
replace it)
and short the 2 pads on the board where you took the battery from.

The manual would have a procedure for "rebooting" the machine.
(I cant remember it offhand)


The optical swtich seems to work fine. * *The optical swtich shows it
reading each position and it comes "home" on record 99 like it is
supposed to. I went through the manual, and I'm not getting the TT and
Detent light from the mech board on power up.

I got the schematics from a kind and generous person on the forum.

Excellent ! - could you email to me if they are in electronic format ?

Can I power it up without the Mech board?


The power goes THROUGH the mech board to the CCC. Mech board must be
in there or nothing will work.
(note, you wont damage any board by powering up the machine without
any other board.)

You can power it up without the CCC, in this case if the magazine
still rotates, you have a problem (actually 2 problems) on the mech
control board.

Thanks for the advice. I found another Mech control board on ebay and
I'm awaiting arival.

I'll open it up and see if I can get that battery out and try what you
suggest on the computer control. I walked it through the manual, and
it appears to be doing what it's supposed to do, but I guess I won't
know for sure until I do as you suggest.

This machine has a "tax" tag on it from 2007. So I'm guessing it
hasn't worked since then. The place I got it from was a bankruptcy
auction of an arcade house. (They caught the guy having too many
poker machines in between his jukes and video games). He had a few of
these, and me thinks he didn't want to fix this one because they sold
a whole bunch of CD machines, one of them almost brand new. I got
this one for $75.

The schematics I got are on paper, but I can scan them....The gent
even included the equavalent components.

I got the "new" mech control board for the juke and it worked. The
machine found record 99 and stopped.

It flipped a recored onto the turntable, and then nothing. The motor
must be out. I don't know if it's the "new" mech control board, so I
want to pick some brains.

The machine cancels correctly, the record returns. The record will
eject if I manually move the arm to the eject position. All of the
lights are in proper order.

Brings me to only one conclusion: The turntable motor is out.

1) How can I test the wires comming off the mech control board? What
kind of voltage am I looking for?

2) Does the turntable assembly have a lot of issues with the R-88 or
similar machines? This is a "60 Hz" system. It has one mylar cap,
3mf, 100V. Are these known to go out?

3) Can I order a new motor individually from someplace?

The part numbers of the R-88 motor assembly is 7-00231-11, the manual
says the motor is 3-07920-04 on page, but then on the parts breakdown
it says 3-07917-01 for the 60 hz assembly. I know it is the 60hz
assembly because it has a big sticker on it.

Can I just put a voltmeter across the two lines comming out of the
mech control board or will it blow up in my face?

On Mar 19, 11:24*am, wrote:
I got the "new" mech control board for the juke and it worked. *The
machine found record 99 and stopped.

It flipped a recored onto the turntable, and then nothing. *The motor
must be out. *I don't know if it's the "new" mech control board, so I
want to pick some brains.

The machine cancels correctly, the record returns. *The record will
eject if I manually move the arm to the eject position. *All of the
lights are in proper order.

Brings me to only one conclusion: The turntable motor is out.

1) How can I test the wires comming off the mech control board? *What
kind of voltage am I looking for?


the motor will run of 28vac
All the ones I have seen use a yellow and a black wire to the motor to
deliver
this from the mech control board.


2) Does the turntable assembly have a lot of issues with the R-88 or
similar machines? *This is a "60 Hz" system. *It has one mylar cap,
3mf, 100V. *Are these known to go out?

I have had one cap fail 25 odd years back, the motor would
intermittently go backwards. Turning the mains on and off quickly
would fix this.

When fixing this, found that the motor was wired for 60HZ (note - here
in Australia 50HZ is used). and we ended up wiring for 50HZ - this
needed 2 caps and 1 or 2 resistors where 60HZ needed only one cap.

The cap(s) are used to start the motor when power is applied - and
start it turning in the right direction. Another thing you can try is
to spin the motor shaft around (in the proper direction) with your
fingers, to see if that starts it running. (do not touch any wires to
the motor while spinning any motor shaft, a voltage can be generated
across its wires (even if not connected to anything) and give you a
nasty "bite".

If it does then start, this will be a faulty cap(s) or a faulty motor.

Please note - While I have only ever seen one brand of motor ever used
in these machines (Australian delivered models), the shop manual
showed 4 different brands of motor - and each had different capacitor
connection methods, and wiring method. These other motors might have
been used in US models.

If you buy a second hand or NOS motor, and its not the same exact type
and model as the one you took out, these parts will need to be
connected along with it.


3) Can I order a new motor individually from someplace?

The part numbers of the R-88 motor assembly is 7-00231-11, the manual
says the motor is 3-07920-04 on page, but then on the parts breakdown
it says 3-07917-01 for the 60 hz assembly. *I know it is the 60hz
assembly because it has a big sticker on it.


The motors can be run on 50HZ with capacitor modifications (see
above). The label only indicates
that it has been wired for 60HZ. Note - if you are in US/Canada, you
need 60HZ

On a model of this age, there would be a red aluminium pulley on the
motor for 50hz.

On the one 60hz unit I have seen, there was a silver (natural)
aluminium pulley that had 2 separate diameters, and a guide wire that
held the belt onto one of them. Presumably one is for 50hz and other
for 60 HZ.
(For 50HZ the belt should run on the larger pulley, for 60HZ on the
smaller pulley.)


Can I just put a voltmeter across the two lines comming out of the
mech control board or will it blow up in my face?

You can put a voltmeter across those lines, it should show about 28v
AC when the motor is running. (note that the LED marked "TT Motor"
should come on when the TT motor is supposed to be running. It should
start to run as soon as the transfer arm begins to bring a record out
of the magazine) you wont blow anything up, or get zapped as there
aren't any mains voltages on the mechanism.

On Mar 19, 10:38*am, KR wrote:
On Mar 19, 11:24*am, wrote:





I got the "new" mech control board for the juke and it worked. *The
machine found record 99 and stopped.

It flipped a recored onto the turntable, and then nothing. *The motor
must be out. *I don't know if it's the "new" mech control board, so I
want to pick some brains.

The machine cancels correctly, the record returns. *The record will
eject if I manually move the arm to the eject position. *All of the
lights are in proper order.

Brings me to only one conclusion: The turntable motor is out.

1) How can I test the wires comming off the mech control board? *What
kind of voltage am I looking for?

the motor will run of 28vac
All the ones I have seen use a yellow and a black wire to the motor to
deliver
this from the mech control board.

2) Does the turntable assembly have a lot of issues with the R-88 or
similar machines? *This is a "60 Hz" system. *It has one mylar cap,
3mf, 100V. *Are these known to go out?

I have had one cap fail 25 odd years back, the motor would
intermittently go backwards. Turning the mains on and off quickly
would fix this.

When fixing this, found that the motor was wired for 60HZ (note - here
in Australia 50HZ is used). *and we ended up wiring for 50HZ - this
needed 2 caps and 1 or 2 resistors where 60HZ needed only one cap.

The cap(s) are used to start the motor when power is applied - and
start it turning in the right direction. *Another thing you can try is
to spin the motor shaft around (in the proper direction) with your
fingers, to see if that starts it running. (do not touch any wires to
the motor while spinning any motor shaft, a voltage can be generated
across its wires (even if not connected to anything) and give you a
nasty "bite".

If it does then start, this will be a faulty cap(s) or a faulty motor.

Please note - While I have only ever seen one brand of motor ever used
in these machines (Australian delivered models), the shop manual
showed 4 different brands of motor - and each had different capacitor
connection methods, and wiring method. These other motors might have
been used in US models.

If you buy a second hand or NOS motor, and its not the same exact type
and model as the one you took out, these parts will need to be
connected along with it.

3) Can I order a new motor individually from someplace?

The part numbers of the R-88 motor assembly is 7-00231-11, the manual
says the motor is 3-07920-04 on page, but then on the parts breakdown
it says 3-07917-01 for the 60 hz assembly. *I know it is the 60hz
assembly because it has a big sticker on it.

The motors can be run on *50HZ with capacitor modifications (see
above). The label only indicates
that it has been wired for 60HZ. *Note - if you are in US/Canada, you
need 60HZ

On a model of this age, there would be a red aluminium pulley on the
motor for 50hz.

On the one 60hz unit I have seen, there was a silver (natural)
aluminium pulley that had 2 separate diameters, and a guide wire that
held the belt onto one of them. *Presumably one is for 50hz and other
for 60 HZ.
(For 50HZ the belt should run on the larger pulley, for 60HZ on the
smaller pulley.)

Can I just put a voltmeter across the two lines comming out of the
mech control board or will it blow up in my face?

You can put a voltmeter across those lines, it should show about 28v
AC when the motor is running. (note that the LED marked "TT Motor"
should come on when the TT motor is supposed to be running. It should
start to run as soon as the transfer arm begins to bring a record out
of the magazine) you wont blow anything up, or get zapped as there
aren't any mains voltages on the mechanism.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

In the early 90's Rowe tech service advised us to replace the
capacitors on this style TT motor (R-84 thru R-94) with a 4.7ufd 100
volts or more cap. We did this on all ours and I only replaced one
motor in 10 years after that. Also on all Rowes with circuit boards
the vertical pins usually need resoldering . You should be pretty
handy at soldering and use a grounded iron if you attempt this so you
don't zap sensitive components. Ray

I tried the spin up, nothing. I did "wigggie wiggie" though, so I can
see the amp works, there's a plus.

Now, I got the whole mech off, and I looked at the wiring on the
motor, it looks good. I tested continuity and got it everwhere I
thought I should get it.

I made a harness to plug in to test, and put my trusty volt meter. The
best I got was 5V AC. So I stopped at that point. It has to be
either the Q201, a TIP 115. I have a box of those. I don't have this
Q200 Triac. (I don't have a tester for a Triac - LM340T).

I wish I had a way to supply 28V ac to that motor to see if it will
spin..

On Mar 20, 11:41*am, Fredster wrote:
I tried the spin up, nothing. *I did "wigggie wiggie" though, so I can
see the amp works, there's a plus.

Now, I got the whole mech off, and I looked at the wiring on the
motor, it looks good. *I tested continuity and got it everwhere I
thought I should get it.

I made a harness to plug in to test, and put my trusty volt meter. The
best I got was 5V AC. *So I stopped at that point. *It has to be
either the Q201, a TIP 115. *I have a box of those. *I don't have this
Q200 Triac. *(I don't have a tester for a Triac - LM340T).

I wish I had a way to supply 28V ac to that motor to see if it will
spin..

you can get 28 ac between the yel-black wires going to the mechanism,
and ground (black Black/white).

Measure that is is the right voltage before you connect anything to
it. (just in case someone has fiddled around in the past, or different
colour wire has been used to the standard.

When connected, the motor should turn.