Wurlitzer 3200 question

Hello all.. New to board and new to tinkering on a juke!!

My GF has a 3200 series Wurlitzer in pretty decent shape. Everything seems to work ok on the select end and the turntable will play "if" I manually hit one of the solenoids.
I have the manual and it seems to keep taking me back to a certain "303 lamp" as defined in the troubleshooting section "selection circuit,3-a.. and on pg 14E paragraph 4.
Where the heck is this 303 lamp located??
Any further ideas are welcomed as I've hit a wall on this one.
Many Thanx..FN

On Sep 12, 2:14*pm, fn64 wrote:
Hello all.. New to board and new to tinkering on a juke!!

My GF has a 3200 series Wurlitzer in pretty decent shape. Everything
seems to work ok on the select end and the turntable will play "if" I
manually hit one of the solenoids.
I have the manual and it seems to keep taking me back to a certain "303
lamp" as defined in the troubleshooting section "selection circuit,3-a..
and on pg 14E *paragraph 4.
Where the heck is this 303 lamp located??
Any further ideas are welcomed as I've hit a wall on this one.
Many Thanx..FN

--
fn64

That bulb is probably the current limiter and located inside the box
on the bottom of the cabinet...this box also has relays that control
the write-in and their contacts should probably be -carefully- checked
for pitting and cleaned.


I have two 2300S machines, from what I recall they use #55 lamps in
this function.

While I consider this series of mech to be the best that Wurlitzer
produced (1700-3300) they were set up with WAY too much upward force
in the record lift arms which caused extreme strain on the motor and
gears, along with throwing records and occasionally cracking them if
they got momentarily caught due to a peeling label.

I remove and stretch the two large springs under the mech shelf. to
weaken them and reduce the lift force from over 70 oz to 7-9 for the
100/104 mechs and around 12oz for the 200's.

Whether-or-not you decide to get involved with that --it is critical
that the mech and linkages be thoroughly lubed.

Rob

Originally Posted by Rob in NYC[_2_]

On Sep 12, 2:14*pm, fn64 wrote:
Hello all.. New to board and new to tinkering on a juke!!

My GF has a 3200 series Wurlitzer in pretty decent shape. Everything
seems to work ok on the select end and the turntable will play "if" I
manually hit one of the solenoids.
I have the manual and it seems to keep taking me back to a certain "303
lamp" as defined in the troubleshooting section "selection circuit,3-a..
and on pg 14E *paragraph 4.
Where the heck is this 303 lamp located??
Any further ideas are welcomed as I've hit a wall on this one.
Many Thanx..FN

--
fn64

That bulb is probably the current limiter and located inside the box
on the bottom of the cabinet...this box also has relays that control
the write-in and their contacts should probably be -carefully- checked
for pitting and cleaned.


I have two 2300S machines, from what I recall they use #55 lamps in
this function.

While I consider this series of mech to be the best that Wurlitzer
produced (1700-3300) they were set up with WAY too much upward force
in the record lift arms which caused extreme strain on the motor and
gears, along with throwing records and occasionally cracking them if
they got momentarily caught due to a peeling label.

I remove and stretch the two large springs under the mech shelf. to
weaken them and reduce the lift force from over 70 oz to 7-9 for the
100/104 mechs and around 12oz for the 200's.

Whether-or-not you decide to get involved with that --it is critical
that the mech and linkages be thoroughly lubed.

Rob

Thanks for the info Rob.. Most helpful indeed. I've lubed a lot with 3 in 1 oil applied with a q-tip..

I located the bulb.. It is mounted on the top of the entier playing mechanism in conjunction with the speed control solenoid and the interlock solenoid. see lines 33 and 35 in the schematic. The interlock solenoid is in parallel with a .01 MFD capacitor and the bulb is in series with that circuit. Yes the bulb is blown..
A search for GE-303 type bulbs turns up several hits but they are all "bayonet" bases and I need one with the two pins...go figure..

This bulb is rated at 28 volts, 0.3 amp. Some quick math tells me that's equivlent to 93.3 ohms at 8.4 watts. So herin lies the question...
Would a 100 ohm, 10 watt resistor be a reasonable substitute?
Would or could this move cause further complications or damage?
Should this be of the wirewound variety or would a regular carbon fit the bill?

I would appreciate any help and advice in this direction..
Lacking that does anyone have a pin base 303 in their junk drawer??

This old ham operator is having fun tinkering on a righteous ole juke..

Thanks all.. FN

On Sep 15, 10:53*am, fn64 wrote:
'Rob in NYC[_2_ Wrote:



;658033']On Sep 12, 2:14*pm, fn64
wrote:-
Hello all.. New to board and new to tinkering on a juke!!

My GF has a 3200 series Wurlitzer in pretty decent shape. Everything
seems to work ok on the select end and the turntable will play "if" I
manually hit one of the solenoids.
I have the manual and it seems to keep taking me back to a certain
"303
lamp" as defined in the troubleshooting section "selection
circuit,3-a..
and on pg 14E *paragraph 4.
Where the heck is this 303 lamp located??
Any further ideas are welcomed as I've hit a wall on this one.
Many Thanx..FN

--
fn64-

That bulb is probably the current limiter and located inside the box
on the bottom of the cabinet...this box also has relays that control
the write-in and their contacts should probably be -carefully- checked
for pitting and cleaned.

I have two 2300S machines, from what I recall they use #55 lamps in
this function.

While I consider this series of mech to be the best that Wurlitzer
produced (1700-3300) they were set up with WAY too much upward force
in the record lift arms which caused extreme strain on the motor and
gears, along with throwing records and occasionally cracking them if
they got momentarily caught due to a peeling label.

I remove and stretch the two large springs under the mech shelf. to
weaken them and reduce the lift force from over 70 oz to 7-9 for the
100/104 mechs and around 12oz for the 200's.

Whether-or-not you decide to get involved with that --it is critical
that the mech and linkages be thoroughly lubed.

Rob

Thanks for the info Rob.. Most helpful indeed. I've lubed a lot with 3
in 1 oil applied with a q-tip..

I located the bulb.. It is mounted on the top of the entier playing
mechanism in conjunction with the speed control solenoid and the
interlock solenoid. see lines 33 and 35 in the schematic. The interlock
solenoid is in parallel with a .01 MFD capacitor and the bulb is in
series *with that circuit. Yes the bulb is blown..
A search for GE-303 type bulbs turns up several hits but they are all
"bayonet" bases and I need one with the two pins...go figure..

This bulb is rated *at 28 volts, 0.3 amp. *Some quick math tells me
that's equivlent to 93.3 ohms at 8.4 watts. So herin lies the
question...
Would a 100 ohm, 10 watt resistor be a reasonable substitute?
Would or could this move cause further complications or damage?
Should this be of the wirewound variety or would a regular carbon fit
the bill?

I would appreciate any help and advice in this direction..
Lacking that does anyone have a pin base 303 in their junk drawer??

This old ham operator is having fun tinkering on a righteous ole juke..

Thanks all.. FN

--
fn64

Ok, the 303 is a miniature bayonet lamp. There is no other
configuration. they are located in the junction box on the floor of
the machine and limit the current in the write-in punch. AFAIK
nothing in the speed change mech should have any bearing on the
ability of the machine to actually select...so check for bulbs in the
junction box.

Yes you can use a resistor as a sub for whatever is up in the speed
changer (up in the arch) but two points: The bulbs have a -much- lower
transient resistance from a cold start and so, you'll probably need a
lower resistor than your calculations determined. Try half. The type
of resistor is unimportant but in those values, wirewound is the only
commonly available choice.

Bulbs are used to allow maximum current for an instant, but limit the
flow if some fault causes the coil to stay energized. If you have a
means to measure current through this circuit, you can insert a fuse
rated at approx 75-80% of that current, use a slow blow.You could use
an under rated (watts) resistor as a "fuse" (I do this in Seeburg
steppers) but if it ever flames out the smoke might be alarming if the
person does not understand what is going on.

Rob

..

Guys, I also have a 3200 that I recently purchased.

I've taken the selector out completely and the junction box, the lp unit, all looking for what is causing my problem

Here it is...

You turn on the unit

You hit a letter, and a number

The number engages (half the time), even when it does nothing happens after the number engages

If you manually press the solenoid plate on the lower platter it will go to the letter and (when it engaged) number you selected

I've swapped relays around, checked continuity from the top of the relay female sockets to the solder connections on the bottom, the light bulb works I think because when you press the number and letter when it tries to engage the number the light briefly lights up for a instant..

I've swapped the 2 red relays around and no difference, I've swapped relay 1 and 3 out completely with brand new relays and new difference..

I just cannot get this thing to select a letter... How can I select a letter electronically without the buttons up front so I can rule out the letters on the button panel? Since the letter buttons stick down and reset when powered off shouldn't that mean the letter button switches are good? They can't all be bad are they I've tried them all?

Help??

I dont have the complete manual only pages 1-17 someone was nice enough to send, which doesn't contain the troubleshooting section mentioned above...

Rob