No need to shake it. Use it right out of the bottle as is. When the bottle is
used up, it will look like a 1950's bottle - inky at the bottom. If your flow
is reduced - and you leave the bottle open for a long time you can add a little
water to pref. (you should fill the pen and close the bottle promptly, as the
water used in the ink is chemically as pure as can be made and it would be wise
to preserve from evaporation loss). A cellulose reactive ink can be killed,
however - if you add certain chemicals while still in liquid form (if one pen
has a highly acidic ink or ink containing salts - rinse it out VERY well before
filling with a cellulose reactive ink, and don't mix from that pen into the
cellulose reactive ink if not rinsed clean). Cellulose reactive inks are
fragile - only AFTER drying on paper will they become durable vrs. the enemies
of certain chemicals and salts (and also immune to just about everything
else...including the tools of the forger). It is a type of lattice ink, as the
dye sits on the opposite side of the water lattice vrs. normal inks.

The first cellulose reactive ink (the black) has been in test pens continuously
since introduction - including a Kaweco sport ink ball for months as well. It
has performed flawlessly and the first triumph plunger filler that still has
its first filling in it - still writes on the first stroke (note, it is a
sealed cap pen that does not generally have drying problems - thus the many
months - since March - of still writing wet the moment it touches the page).
My main concern with such inks has always been that people follow the
maintenance advised by manufacturers (rinse before storage, rinse before
changing inks - regular tap water is fine).

Giovanni ----is it true you are an airship/lighter than air veteran? If so,
let me know. I have a lot of info. for you.