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WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
Anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell? PN is
302-05193. |
WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
On Jun 13, 9:12*am, Alan Hood
wrote: Klickit;685769 Wrote: Anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell? *PN is 302-05193. Hello, You can use any turntable motor from any of the 1100 mechanisms from the 1963 Model L through to the 1976 R-80 and the1200 mechanisms from 1976/77 R-80S through to 1979 R-83. If you get stuck I could supply a good used one, but I am in the UK. Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood Thanks Alan, that's good information to know. I did manage to get one at jukeboxparts.com. Paid $75 for it. Seemed like a fair price to me. Just hope it fixes my problem. The speed is slightly slow and has a slight wow. I opened it up and two of the coils had hot spots where the varnish was burned off and a few of the wires shorted together. I replaced the idler wheel and it made no difference even though it had some nicks in it. Do you think I am on the right track? |
Quote:
Have you replaced the idler wheel with a new one or just a used one? You need to check out that motor with regards to wear on the top and bottom bearing, remove any old caked on oil and re oil, if the shaft is worn on the bottom or top then the motor is no good but by the sound of it with shorted windings it is not at its best. If you were in Europe then there is a speed spring fitted to the motor shaft to alter it from your 60hz to our 50hz (these wear and need replacing). The way we test for problems with speed is to put a record in play and hold the edge of the record, the turntable under the record should keep turning strongly, if it does not it is usually the idler wheel and linkage that is the problem. Have you changed the three motor grommets? (part number 200-11501) Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK |
WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
On Jun 15, 5:33*am, Alan Hood
wrote: Klickit;685805 Wrote: On Jun 13, 9:12*am, Alan Hood wrote:- Klickit;685769 Wrote: - Anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell? *PN is 302-05193.- Hello, You can use any turntable motor from any of the 1100 mechanisms from the 1963 Model L through to the 1976 R-80 and the1200 mechanisms from 1976/77 R-80S through to 1979 R-83. If you get stuck I could supply a good used one, but I am in the UK. Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood- Thanks Alan, that's good information to know. *I did manage to get one at jukeboxparts.com. *Paid $75 for it. *Seemed like a fair price to me. *Just hope it fixes my problem. *The speed is slightly slow and has a slight wow. *I opened it up and two of the coils had hot spots where the varnish was burned off and a few of the wires shorted together. *I replaced the idler wheel and it made no difference even though it had some nicks in it. *Do you think I am on the right track? Hi, Have you replaced the idler wheel with a new one or just a used one? You need to check out that motor with regards to wear on the top and bottom bearing, remove any old caked on oil and re oil, if the shaft is worn on the bottom or top then the motor is no good but by the sound of it with shorted windings it is not at its best. If you were in Europe then there is a speed spring fitted to the motor shaft to alter it from your 60hz to our 50hz (these wear and need replacing). The way we test for problems with speed is to put a record in play and hold the edge of the record, the turntable under the record should keep turning strongly, if it does not it is usually the idler wheel and linkage that is the problem. Have you changed the three motor grommets? (part number 200-11501) Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood Hi Alan, I'm getting the new motor tomorrow so I still have the mechanism apart. I'll try your suggestions after I get the new motor in. I sure hope the motor change takes care of it. The idler wheel was a used one so now I'm a little worried about that. I got it from this jukebox parts place so I wouldn't think they would send me a worn one but who knows. Holding the record to see if it still turns sounds like a good test. I'll report back after I get the motor in. Regards, Bob Klock |
WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
On Jun 15, 10:59*am, Klickit wrote:
On Jun 15, 5:33*am, Alan Hood wrote: Klickit;685805 Wrote: On Jun 13, 9:12*am, Alan Hood wrote:- Klickit;685769 Wrote: - Anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell? *PN is 302-05193.- Hello, You can use any turntable motor from any of the 1100 mechanisms from the 1963 Model L through to the 1976 R-80 and the1200 mechanisms from 1976/77 R-80S through to 1979 R-83. If you get stuck I could supply a good used one, but I am in the UK. Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood- Thanks Alan, that's good information to know. *I did manage to get one at jukeboxparts.com. *Paid $75 for it. *Seemed like a fair price to me. *Just hope it fixes my problem. *The speed is slightly slow and has a slight wow. *I opened it up and two of the coils had hot spots where the varnish was burned off and a few of the wires shorted together. *I replaced the idler wheel and it made no difference even though it had some nicks in it. *Do you think I am on the right track? Hi, Have you replaced the idler wheel with a new one or just a used one? You need to check out that motor with regards to wear on the top and bottom bearing, remove any old caked on oil and re oil, if the shaft is worn on the bottom or top then the motor is no good but by the sound of it with shorted windings it is not at its best. If you were in Europe then there is a speed spring fitted to the motor shaft to alter it from your 60hz to our 50hz (these wear and need replacing). The way we test for problems with speed is to put a record in play and hold the edge of the record, the turntable under the record should keep turning strongly, if it does not it is usually the idler wheel and linkage that is the problem. Have you changed the three motor grommets? (part number 200-11501) Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood Hi Alan, I'm getting the new motor tomorrow so I still have the mechanism apart. * I'll try your suggestions after I get the new motor in. *I sure hope the motor change takes care of it. *The idler wheel was a used one so now I'm a little worried about that. *I got it from this jukebox parts place so I wouldn't think they would send me a worn one but who knows. *Holding the record to see if it still turns sounds like a good test. *I'll report back after I get the motor in. Regards, Bob Klock Hi Alan, Got the new motor, installed it and the speed and wow problem is solved. Whew, I was a little worried. I have another problem now that I actually had before I changed motors. The sound has what I would call a consistent low frequency sputter that is there only when the needle is on a record. It is dead quiet with the tone arm lifted. It is not really loud but noticeable when you listen for it. I'm thinking it is turntable noise coming through the cartridge or there is something wrong with the needle or cartridge with the way it is tracking. I have a new needle coming so will try that first. Any thoughts. Thanks, Bob |
Quote:
Have you changed those motor rubber mounts? This could be the problem, also you said there was some dings in the idler wheel this could also be the issue. How long have you had the styli in the cartridge? also have you looked at the stylus when it is on the record is it being forced onto record. this could be there is an issue with the styli or the tone arm settings. Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK |
WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
On Jun 17, 5:47*am, Alan Hood
wrote: Klickit;685921 Wrote: On Jun 15, 10:59*am, Klickit wrote:- On Jun 15, 5:33*am, Alan Hood wrote: - Klickit;685805 Wrote:- -- On Jun 13, 9:12*am, Alan Hood wrote:- Klickit;685769 Wrote: - Anyone have a known good one they are willing to sell? *PN is 302-05193.--- -- Hello,-- -- You can use any turntable motor from any of the 1100 mechanisms from the 1963 Model L through to the 1976 R-80 and the1200 mechanisms from 1976/77 R-80S through to 1979 R-83.-- -- If you get stuck I could supply a good used one, but I am in the UK.-- -- Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK -- -- -- Alan Hood--- -- Thanks Alan, that's good information to know. *I did manage to get one at jukeboxparts.com. *Paid $75 for it. *Seemed like a fair price to me. *Just hope it fixes my problem. *The speed is slightly slow and has a slight wow. *I opened it up and two of the coils had hot spots where the varnish was burned off and a few of the wires shorted together. *I replaced the idler wheel and it made no difference even though it had some nicks in it. *Do you think I am on the right track?-- - Hi,- - Have you replaced the idler wheel with a new one or just a used one? You need to check out that motor with regards to wear on the top and bottom bearing, remove any old caked on oil and re oil, if the shaft is worn on the bottom or top then the motor is no good but by the sound of it with shorted windings it is not at its best. If you were in Europe then there is a speed spring fitted to the motor shaft to alter it from your 60hz to our 50hz (these wear and need replacing).- - The way we test for problems with speed is to put a record in play and hold the edge of the record, the turntable under the record should keep turning strongly, if it does not it is usually the idler wheel and linkage that is the problem.- - Have you changed the three motor grommets? (part number 200-11501)- - Regards Alan Hood ami-man UK- - -- Alan Hood- Hi Alan, I'm getting the new motor tomorrow so I still have the mechanism apart. * I'll try your suggestions after I get the new motor in. *I sure hope the motor change takes care of it. *The idler wheel was a used one so now I'm a little worried about that. *I got it from this jukebox parts place so I wouldn't think they would send me a worn one but who knows. *Holding the record to see if it still turns sounds like a good test. *I'll report back after I get the motor in. Regards, Bob Klock- Hi Alan, Got the new motor, installed it and the speed and wow problem is solved. *Whew, I was a little worried. *I have another problem now that I actually had before I changed motors. *The sound has what I would call a consistent low frequency sputter that is there only when the needle is on a record. *It is dead quiet with the tone arm lifted.. It is not really loud but noticeable when you listen for it. *I'm thinking it is turntable noise coming through the cartridge or there is something wrong with the needle or cartridge with the way it is tracking. *I have a new needle coming so will try that first. *Any thoughts. Thanks, Bob Hi Bob, Have you changed those motor rubber mounts? This could be the problem, also you said there was some dings in the idler wheel this could also be the issue. How long have you had the styli in the cartridge? also have you looked at the stylus when it is on the record is it being forced onto record. this could be there is an issue with the styli or the tone arm settings. Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK -- Alan Hood Well, i hooked the amp to a regular turntable to see if the sound went away and it was still there. I pulled the front from the bottom of the machine and found that both sub-woofers had the outer foam ring disintegrated. Now I need a set of speakers. They are 25 ohm 10" so may be a little hard to find. Found lots of 12" on Ebay but no 10's. I'm beginning to wonder if this thing is worth it. Bob |
Quote:
Here is a listing for TI-1 or 2 speakers on Ebay in the USA, these will be ok for you. Item number: 120672099041 Regards Alan Alan Hood ami-man UK |
WTB: Turntable motor for Rowe R81
On 6/17/2011 1:20 PM, Klickit wrote:
Well, i hooked the amp to a regular turntable to see if the sound went away and it was still there. I pulled the front from the bottom of the machine and found that both sub-woofers had the outer foam ring disintegrated. Now I need a set of speakers. They are 25 ohm 10" so may be a little hard to find. Found lots of 12" on Ebay but no 10's. I'm beginning to wonder if this thing is worth it. Bob You don't need new speakers, lot's of places will repair yours for a lot less than new ones, and you don't know the frequency response of the old ones so you won't know what new ones to buy. It makes a huge difference, always stick to the original speakers when possible. Even if the cones are all torn apart they still rebuild them. I just replaced the foam surrounds on a set, my first attempt myself, and they turned out great. Lots of DIY foam kits on ebay. Tony |
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